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1929 Chris Craft Care and Operation Book

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Chris Craft Care and Operation Book First Edition price 75cents 1929 Chris Craft Care and Operation Book First Edition price 75cents 1929
Chris Craft Care and Operation Book First Edition price 75cents 1929 chris smith and sons boat co. Algonac Michigan USA Chris Craft Care and Operation Book First Edition price 75cents 1929 chris smith and sons boat co. Algonac Michigan USA
Index to Text CChrarifst Care and Operation Handbook Introduction 3 Relation between Boat Speed and Warranty 4 Engine Revolutions 24 Specifications 5 Electric Gasoline Gauge 27 Nautical Terms and Marine Nomen Gasoline PumpsEMleecctrihc clature anical Automatic 31 Unloading the Boat 7 Racing Trim 33 Laying up the Boat for the Winter 34 Launching the Boat 8 Care of the Chrysler Royal Marine 82 First Care to Be Given Hull and and Imperial 106 37 Engine before Starting 10 Care of the Kermath 200 HP38 Starting the Engine 14 Care of the CChrarifst 225 HP 38 Steering the Boat 14 Winter Care of the Storage Battery 40 Care of the Boat during the Season 16 Fitting Out the Boat for Spring 10 Automatic Bailer Care of 16 RefinishingChris CraftMAahoglanly Stuffing Boxes Care of 17 Motor Boats from the WoodUp 40 First Aid Suggestions 19 How to Obtain the Satin Finish 41 Instructions for Ordering Parts 15 Drop in Revolutions 23 Location of Hull and Engine Numbers 46 Error in Tachometer Reading 24 Information Concerning Service 46 Index to Illustrations Plate No 1 CChrarifstPower and ControlUnits Illustrating Chrysler Power Instal lation 2 CChrarifst Frame Construction 26 foot Model Illustrated 3 CChrarifst Bottom f2oo2t Model Illustrated 4 CChrarifst Bottom and Side Plank ing f2oo2t Model Illustrated 5 CChrarifst Hull Details f2oo2t Model Illustrated 6 CChrarifst Hull Details 28 foot Model Illustrated 7 Full Automatic Self Bailer 8 CChrarifst Forward Cockpit Finish f2o2ot Model Illustrated Plate No 9 CChrarifst Aft Cockpit Finish 22 foot Model Illustrated 10 Hull and Transom Frame 11 Rudder Installation 12 Transom Planking 13 CChrarifst Engine Hatch Assembly 14 CChrarifst Controls Models 12 15 CChrarifst Controls Models 1342 16 CChrarifst Controls Models567 1890134578 17 Hull Complete f2o2ot Model Illus trated 18 Aft Chine Support Block 19 Location of Supporting Timbers for Winter SAtoralgle Models 20 Location of Serial Plate 21 Engine Tool Kits Index to Text CChrarifst Care and Operation Handbook Introduction 3 Relation between Boat Speed and Warranty 4 Engine Revolutions 24 Specifications 5 Electric Gasoline Gauge 27 Nautical Terms and Marine Nomen Gasoline PumpsEMleecctrihc clature anical Automatic 31 Unloading the Boat 7 Racing Trim 33 Laying up the Boat for the Winter 34 Launching the Boat 8 Care of the Chrysler Royal Marine 82 First Care to Be Given Hull and and Imperial 106 37 Engine before Starting 10 Care of the Kermath 200 HP38 Starting the Engine 14 Care of the CChrarifst 225 HP 38 Steering the Boat 14 Winter Care of the Storage Battery 40 Care of the Boat during the Season 16 Fitting Out the Boat for Spring 10 Automatic Bailer Care of 16 RefinishingChris CraftMAahoglanly Stuffing Boxes Care of 17 Motor Boats from the WoodUp 40 First Aid Suggestions 19 How to Obtain the Satin Finish 41 Instructions for Ordering Parts 15 Drop in Revolutions 23 Location of Hull and Engine Numbers 46 Error in Tachometer Reading 24 Information Concerning Service 46 Index to Illustrations Plate No 1 CChrarifstPower and ControlUnits Illustrating Chrysler Power Instal lation 2 CChrarifst Frame Construction 26 foot Model Illustrated 3 CChrarifst Bottom f2oo2t Model Illustrated 4 CChrarifst Bottom and Side Plank ing f2oo2t Model Illustrated 5 CChrarifst Hull Details f2oo2t Model Illustrated 6 CChrarifst Hull Details 28 foot Model Illustrated 7 Full Automatic Self Bailer 8 CChrarifst Forward Cockpit Finish f2o2ot Model Illustrated Plate No 9 CChrarifst Aft Cockpit Finish 22 foot Model Illustrated 10 Hull and Transom Frame 11 Rudder Installation 12 Transom Planking 13 CChrarifst Engine Hatch Assembly 14 CChrarifst Controls Models 12 15 CChrarifst Controls Models 1342 16 CChrarifst Controls Models567 1890134578 17 Hull Complete f2o2ot Model Illus trated 18 Aft Chine Support Block 19 Location of Supporting Timbers for Winter SAtoralgle Models 20 Location of Serial Plate 21 Engine Tool Kits
Introduction IN presenting this Care and Operation Handbook to the owner of the CChrarifst a point of contact is provided between the boat builder and the user of his product the successful operation of which will redound to their mutual advantage The purpose is to convey to the owner of the boat the few but important instructions for the care operation and handling which are necessary to secure the full measure of service and pleasure which the purchaser of a CChrarifst has every reason to expect Suggestions are made bringing to the oswner attention some of the adjustments which will be obvious to him The oswner responsibility is chiefly that of regularly and thoroughly lubricating the engine For details of engine adjustments we refer you to the Engine Instruction Book which is a part of the tool equipment For more complicated adjustments we refer you to the CChrarifst distributors and dealers who are conveniently located and fully equipped to most efficiently assist the owners Chris Smith Sons Boat Company always heartily cooperate with their distributors and dealers in their efforts to insure the continuance of superior performance which is the inherent quality of the CChrarifst On page number 5 you will find a complete specification chart on the different CChrarifst models The next several pages are devoted to Marine nomenclature giving some of the most commonly used nautical terms and their meanings as they are used in this book that there may be no difficulty between owners distributors and dealers when talking boat Several illustrations will be found throughout this booklet showing many boat details and each detail is pointed out with an arrow indicating its name The subject of care and operation of your CChrarifst is discussed next starting with the procedure of unloading the boat from the railroad car or truck and the first care the boat and engine must be given upon launch ing Next an outline is given of the care of hull and motor during the season as well as how to lay up the boat and care for same during the cold months for those territories subjected to winter frosts Also the subject of refinishing the hull has been given some space In other words we have covered in condensed form the maintenance of your boat for a complete year cycle Introduction IN presenting this Care and Operation Handbook to the owner of the CChrarifst a point of contact is provided between the boat builder and the user of his product the successful operation of which will redound to their mutual advantage The purpose is to convey to the owner of the boat the few but important instructions for the care operation and handling which are necessary to secure the full measure of service and pleasure which the purchaser of a CChrarifst has every reason to expect Suggestions are made bringing to the oswner attention some of the adjustments which will be obvious to him The oswner responsibility is chiefly that of regularly and thoroughly lubricating the engine For details of engine adjustments we refer you to the Engine Instruction Book which is a part of the tool equipment For more complicated adjustments we refer you to the CChrarifst distributors and dealers who are conveniently located and fully equipped to most efficiently assist the owners Chris Smith Sons Boat Company always heartily cooperate with their distributors and dealers in their efforts to insure the continuance of superior performance which is the inherent quality of the CChrarifst On page number 5 you will find a complete specification chart on the different CChrarifst models The next several pages are devoted to Marine nomenclature giving some of the most commonly used nautical terms and their meanings as they are used in this book that there may be no difficulty between owners distributors and dealers when talking boat Several illustrations will be found throughout this booklet showing many boat details and each detail is pointed out with an arrow indicating its name The subject of care and operation of your CChrarifst is discussed next starting with the procedure of unloading the boat from the railroad car or truck and the first care the boat and engine must be given upon launch ing Next an outline is given of the care of hull and motor during the season as well as how to lay up the boat and care for same during the cold months for those territories subjected to winter frosts Also the subject of refinishing the hull has been given some space In other words we have covered in condensed form the maintenance of your boat for a complete year cycle
CChrarifst Warranty It is the duty of every CChrarifst owner to read and thor oughly understand theCChrarifst Warranty THATtheCChrarifst Boats aondrCChrarifstparts manufactured by Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company are warranted to be free from defects in material or workmanship under normal use and service the Msanufacturer obligation under this warranty being limited to replacing or repairing any part or parts thereof which shall within ONE YEAR after date of delivery of such boat or part to the original purchaser be returned to the factory of Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company at Algonac Michigan with transportation charges prepaid and which the Msanufacturer examination shall disclose to its satisfaction to be not up to specifications providing that the Manufacturer receive within thirty 30 days from date of the discovery of such claim written notice thereof and further pro vided that within said thirty 30 days the part or parts claimed not up to specifications shall be sent to the Msanufacturer factory with all transportation charges prepaid This warranty being expressly in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied and all other obligations or liabilities on the part of the Manufacturer the Manu facturer neither assumes nor authorizes any person to assume for the Manufacturer any liability in connection with the sale of Chris Craft runabouts aondrparts This warranty shall not apply to any CChrarifst boat aondr part manufactured by Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company which shall have been altered or repaired outside of the factories of Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company in any way that in the Msanufacturer judgment affects its stability or reliability or which has been subject to misuse neglect or accident The Manufacturer makes no warranties whatsoever in respect to slarting devices generators batteries horns autopulses tacho meters or other trade accessories CChrarifst Warranty It is the duty of every CChrarifst owner to read and thor oughly understand theCChrarifst Warranty THATtheCChrarifst Boats aondrCChrarifstparts manufactured by Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company are warranted to be free from defects in material or workmanship under normal use and service the Msanufacturer obligation under this warranty being limited to replacing or repairing any part or parts thereof which shall within ONE YEAR after date of delivery of such boat or part to the original purchaser be returned to the factory of Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company at Algonac Michigan with transportation charges prepaid and which the Msanufacturer examination shall disclose to its satisfaction to be not up to specifications providing that the Manufacturer receive within thirty 30 days from date of the discovery of such claim written notice thereof and further pro vided that within said thirty 30 days the part or parts claimed not up to specifications shall be sent to the Msanufacturer factory with all transportation charges prepaid This warranty being expressly in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied and all other obligations or liabilities on the part of the Manufacturer the Manu facturer neither assumes nor authorizes any person to assume for the Manufacturer any liability in connection with the sale of Chris Craft runabouts aondrparts This warranty shall not apply to any CChrarifst boat aondr part manufactured by Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company which shall have been altered or repaired outside of the factories of Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company in any way that in the Msanufacturer judgment affects its stability or reliability or which has been subject to misuse neglect or accident The Manufacturer makes no warranties whatsoever in respect to slarting devices generators batteries horns autopulses tacho meters or other trade accessories
1929 CHRIS CRAFT SPECIFICATIONS Trade Name C H R I S C R A F T Model 1 2 3 h 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Deluxe Deluxe Custom Custom Custom Deluxe Commut Deluxe Run Nun Run Run Run Cabin Hun Cabin Run Corn Run Cabin ing Custom Cabin Tvpe about about about about about Sedan about Sedan Sedan about muter Sedan Sedan about Sedan Cruiser Itunaboul Sedan MilanperHour 30 35 33 30 42 10 45 13 43 40 38 32 40 42 10 30 40 38 FREE Fore 29 29 32 31 34 34 3d 11 31 37 37 32 34 34 3V 49 34 31 BOARD Aft 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 19 19 24 21 Ili 19 21 21 31 21 21 4oLraeYes Yes Yes Yes Yea Yea Yes Yes Yes Ycs yes Yes Yes Yes rca Yes resIs tCover 1 1 1 1 22 0 22 8 24 7 26 8 26 8 26 8 26 8 26 8 26 8 31 6 31 6 24 7 26 8 28 9 28 9 38 1 EXPORT DATA Prices on Application 1929 CHRIS CRAFT SPECIFICATIONS Trade Name C H R I S C R A F T Model 1 2 3 h 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Deluxe Deluxe Custom Custom Custom Deluxe Commut Deluxe Run Nun Run Run Run Cabin Hun Cabin Run Corn Run Cabin ing Custom Cabin Tvpe about about about about about Sedan about Sedan Sedan about muter Sedan Sedan about Sedan Cruiser Itunaboul Sedan MilanperHour 30 35 33 30 42 10 45 13 43 40 38 32 40 42 10 30 40 38 FREE Fore 29 29 32 31 34 34 3d 11 31 37 37 32 34 34 3V 49 34 31 BOARD Aft 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 19 19 24 21 Ili 19 21 21 31 21 21 4oLraeYes Yes Yes Yes Yea Yea Yes Yes Yes Ycs yes Yes Yes Yes rca Yes resIs tCover 1 1 1 1 22 0 22 8 24 7 26 8 26 8 26 8 26 8 26 8 26 8 31 6 31 6 24 7 26 8 28 9 28 9 38 1 EXPORT DATA Prices on Application
Nautical Terms and Marine Nomenclature Aft Rear toward orin the stern of boat astern abaft Aft Shutter One of bottom planks See Plate 4 Aft Streak Aft side planking See Plate 4 Amidship In or toward the middle of boat in regard to its length Autopulse Tradename of Electric Fuel Pump Plate 1 Auxiliary Frames Plate 6 Bailer Apparatus for bailing outboat Plate 7 Batten See seam batten Plate 2Deck batten Plate56 Bearers See strut bearers Binding Hatch binding Plate 17 Blocking For laying boat up Plates189 Boot Jack Cross timber in form resembling a boot jack to which steering gear fastens Plate16 Bottom Canvas Canvas between diagonal bottom and longitudinal bottom planking Plate 3 Bow Forward part of boat Bow Bottom and Top Bows See Plates210 Bow Pennant Bow flag Plate 17 Breast Hook Small bow corner piece joined by stem and sheer clamps Plate256 Bulkhead Engine room partition Engine room fdor and aftbulkhead Plate 9 Burgee See bow pennant Butt Block A block on which two planks join end to end Plate S Cardinal Points The four principal points of the com passNESW Carlin Short deck beam running crosswise from one transverse deck beam to the other Plate 4 Cheek Transom outside frame uprights Plate210 Chine The piece to which the side and bottom plank ing join Plates23 Chock A casting on side of deck in which the lines lie when moored to dock Plates147 ClamShell Vent Plates147 Cleat Plates 147 Fender cleat mooring cleat Coaming Wooden railing on sides of cockpit Plates914 Compass Point The 32nd part of 360 degrees or about 11 degrees Covering Board Narrow deck strip between hood and Coaming Plates513 Crown Piece Transom part Plate 10 Cutwater Metal part covering the stem or bow of boat Plate 17 Diagonal Planking First bottom planking See Plate 3 Ensign Stern Stern flag denoting nationality Plate 17 Even Keel When notkeeled to starboard or port Eye Splice The end of a rope turned in so as to form an eye Fairleader Metal bow deck piece through which rope passes Fairway The channel through which the vessel passes Fathom Six feet Fender Rail Metal railing running around boat Forefoot Connecting piece between stem and keel Plates126 Fdor Sheer Side Planking See Plate 4 FdorShutter Bottom planking See Plate 4 FdorStreak Side planking See Plate 4 Frame Also bottom and top frames Plates210 Frame Intermediate See Plates256 Frame Knee See Plates210 Freeboard The side outof water Fromdeck to waterline Garboard Bottom planking See Plate 4 Grub Beams Plate 13 Hatch Small door Forward hatch Engine hatches Plates513 Header Hatch header Plate 13 Hood Forward amidship and aft hood either starboard or port Side and bottom planking Plate4 Intermediate Frame See Plates256 Keel Center and bottom timber of boat Plates125 Keelsons Planks running parallel to keel Serving also as engine bed timbers distributing strain equally over entire boat Plates1256 Kingplank Forward deck and aft deck Center deck plank Plate 5 Knuckle SeeChine Lee Opposite side of that on which wind blows Log Shaft Log Bronze casting fastened to keel to which stuffing box bolts and which forms water tight joint over shaft hole in keel Motometer Cooling water temperature gauge on dash Plate 16 Painter Bow rope Panel Cockpit panels Plate 14 Pennant See bow pennant or burgee Port Nautical term for left side when sitting in a boat and looking toward the bow Protection Plate Brass plate fastened on bottom above propeller installed to protect bottom against action of water caused by propeller wheel Quarter Brasses Flat metal strips at aft end of sides running from deck to knuckle Quarter Rails Short rails halfway between deck and knuckle and aft on sides parallel to waterline Railing Plate 17 Risers Engine or keelsons to which engine is bolted also seat riser floor riser Plates89 Round inHaul in a line Round Turn Passing a rope twice around anything in making fast Rudder Details Plate 11 Rudder Support Plate 11 Seam Batten Longitudinal strip let in in frames on which side planking join lengthwise Plate 2 Serial Plate Givinghull type and engine serials Plate 20 Shaft Log See log Plate15 Sheer Clamp Top batten joining frames Plate2 Sheer Streak Side Planking No 1 No 2 No 3 etc starting at chine upwards Plate 4 Shutter Bottom planking See Plate 4 Stakes See transom stakes Plate 10 Starboard Nautical term for right side when looking towards bow Stem Bow timber Prow Plates1245 Stern Aft end of boat Streaks Side planking Plate 4 Strut Propeller shaft bearing support under the boat Plates14 Strut Bearers Cross pieces to support strut Plate 2 Supports Laying boat up for winter Plates 189 Tachometer Instrument giving revolutions per minute Plates1456 Tank Saddles See Plate 6 Tie Bottom frame Plate 10 Timbers For laying up boat Plate 18 Transom Stern of boat Plates 102 Transom Bottom Bow Plates510 Transom Planking Plate 12 Transom Stakes Transom inside frame uprights Nautical Terms and Marine Nomenclature Aft Rear toward orin the stern of boat astern abaft Aft Shutter One of bottom planks See Plate 4 Aft Streak Aft side planking See Plate 4 Amidship In or toward the middle of boat in regard to its length Autopulse Tradename of Electric Fuel Pump Plate 1 Auxiliary Frames Plate 6 Bailer Apparatus for bailing outboat Plate 7 Batten See seam batten Plate 2Deck batten Plate56 Bearers See strut bearers Binding Hatch binding Plate 17 Blocking For laying boat up Plates189 Boot Jack Cross timber in form resembling a boot jack to which steering gear fastens Plate16 Bottom Canvas Canvas between diagonal bottom and longitudinal bottom planking Plate 3 Bow Forward part of boat Bow Bottom and Top Bows See Plates210 Bow Pennant Bow flag Plate 17 Breast Hook Small bow corner piece joined by stem and sheer clamps Plate256 Bulkhead Engine room partition Engine room fdor and aftbulkhead Plate 9 Burgee See bow pennant Butt Block A block on which two planks join end to end Plate S Cardinal Points The four principal points of the com passNESW Carlin Short deck beam running crosswise from one transverse deck beam to the other Plate 4 Cheek Transom outside frame uprights Plate210 Chine The piece to which the side and bottom plank ing join Plates23 Chock A casting on side of deck in which the lines lie when moored to dock Plates147 ClamShell Vent Plates147 Cleat Plates 147 Fender cleat mooring cleat Coaming Wooden railing on sides of cockpit Plates914 Compass Point The 32nd part of 360 degrees or about 11 degrees Covering Board Narrow deck strip between hood and Coaming Plates513 Crown Piece Transom part Plate 10 Cutwater Metal part covering the stem or bow of boat Plate 17 Diagonal Planking First bottom planking See Plate 3 Ensign Stern Stern flag denoting nationality Plate 17 Even Keel When notkeeled to starboard or port Eye Splice The end of a rope turned in so as to form an eye Fairleader Metal bow deck piece through which rope passes Fairway The channel through which the vessel passes Fathom Six feet Fender Rail Metal railing running around boat Forefoot Connecting piece between stem and keel Plates126 Fdor Sheer Side Planking See Plate 4 FdorShutter Bottom planking See Plate 4 FdorStreak Side planking See Plate 4 Frame Also bottom and top frames Plates210 Frame Intermediate See Plates256 Frame Knee See Plates210 Freeboard The side outof water Fromdeck to waterline Garboard Bottom planking See Plate 4 Grub Beams Plate 13 Hatch Small door Forward hatch Engine hatches Plates513 Header Hatch header Plate 13 Hood Forward amidship and aft hood either starboard or port Side and bottom planking Plate4 Intermediate Frame See Plates256 Keel Center and bottom timber of boat Plates125 Keelsons Planks running parallel to keel Serving also as engine bed timbers distributing strain equally over entire boat Plates1256 Kingplank Forward deck and aft deck Center deck plank Plate 5 Knuckle SeeChine Lee Opposite side of that on which wind blows Log Shaft Log Bronze casting fastened to keel to which stuffing box bolts and which forms water tight joint over shaft hole in keel Motometer Cooling water temperature gauge on dash Plate 16 Painter Bow rope Panel Cockpit panels Plate 14 Pennant See bow pennant or burgee Port Nautical term for left side when sitting in a boat and looking toward the bow Protection Plate Brass plate fastened on bottom above propeller installed to protect bottom against action of water caused by propeller wheel Quarter Brasses Flat metal strips at aft end of sides running from deck to knuckle Quarter Rails Short rails halfway between deck and knuckle and aft on sides parallel to waterline Railing Plate 17 Risers Engine or keelsons to which engine is bolted also seat riser floor riser Plates89 Round inHaul in a line Round Turn Passing a rope twice around anything in making fast Rudder Details Plate 11 Rudder Support Plate 11 Seam Batten Longitudinal strip let in in frames on which side planking join lengthwise Plate 2 Serial Plate Givinghull type and engine serials Plate 20 Shaft Log See log Plate15 Sheer Clamp Top batten joining frames Plate2 Sheer Streak Side Planking No 1 No 2 No 3 etc starting at chine upwards Plate 4 Shutter Bottom planking See Plate 4 Stakes See transom stakes Plate 10 Starboard Nautical term for right side when looking towards bow Stem Bow timber Prow Plates1245 Stern Aft end of boat Streaks Side planking Plate 4 Strut Propeller shaft bearing support under the boat Plates14 Strut Bearers Cross pieces to support strut Plate 2 Supports Laying boat up for winter Plates 189 Tachometer Instrument giving revolutions per minute Plates1456 Tank Saddles See Plate 6 Tie Bottom frame Plate 10 Timbers For laying up boat Plate 18 Transom Stern of boat Plates 102 Transom Bottom Bow Plates510 Transom Planking Plate 12 Transom Stakes Transom inside frame uprights
Unloading and Launching the Boat in case you reside in a territory where there is no CChrarifst dealer to assist you in the unloading and launching of your boat we suggest that you get in touch with a reliable trucking company to do this for you When you receive word from the railroad com pany that the railroad car has arrived ascertain at the earliest possible moment whether the car seals are unmolested Procure an unloading permit from the local freight agent before proceeding to unload the boat Having obtained permission to proceed with the unloading of the boat and all seals having been found intact the next step is to open up the car and inspect the boat in the car making sure that no damage has been done during transit that the boat did not shift in the cradle and that the cradle did not break loose Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company have had years of experience in the preparing and loading of boats for shipment The cradle used for this purpose and the bracing of the cradle and boat in the railroad car are such that the boat can shift and break loose only from extreme abuse Should it be found upon inspection that the seals are damaged or after opening the car that the boat has shifted the next step would be to notify the freight agent and have a notation made on the bill of lading stating your claim If however everything is found Okeh the boat may be un loaded on the truck The truck should be backed to the end of the railroad car and the stakes which hold the cradle in position should be care fully removed seeing to it that the boat is not damaged during this operation by the solippinfg a wrecking bar The stakes having been removed the next opera tion is removing all the cradle sbtarocnkgswhich hold the cradle down to the car floor by loosening and removing the bolts which fasten these strong backs through the bottom of the railroad car The next operation is to pry up the cradle and place a roller under same Should the platform of the truck be higher or lower than the floor of the railroad car a gradual incline of planking should be laid to enable the gradual rolling of the boat out of the railroad car and to prevent a sudden drop and jar to the boat due to the drop ping of a roller A small set of falls may be used in case the truck should not be provided with a winch to haul the boat onto the truck After the boat is placed on the truck we suggest at this stage of the unloading that a careful in spection be made of the contents of the boat against the equipment record a copy of which will be found with the instructions and pilot rules in the tool box also making sure that the front drain plug located under the intermediate seat is in place and screwed up thiagnhdt This being done replace the sbtarocnkgs across the cradle and if necessary holes should be drilled in the truck platform enabling the bolting down of the sbtarocnkgs to the truck platform in the samemanner as these were secured to the railroad car floor Blocking or stakes should be provided along the sides of the cradle to prevent same from moving sideways and if the truck is provided with a winch the cable should be left attached to the cradle with a sufficient strain to prevent the boat from moving backwards If the truck has not a winch the cradle should be tied securely to the truck in such a manner as to prevent its shifting during transit Unloading and Launching the Boat in case you reside in a territory where there is no CChrarifst dealer to assist you in the unloading and launching of your boat we suggest that you get in touch with a reliable trucking company to do this for you When you receive word from the railroad com pany that the railroad car has arrived ascertain at the earliest possible moment whether the car seals are unmolested Procure an unloading permit from the local freight agent before proceeding to unload the boat Having obtained permission to proceed with the unloading of the boat and all seals having been found intact the next step is to open up the car and inspect the boat in the car making sure that no damage has been done during transit that the boat did not shift in the cradle and that the cradle did not break loose Chris Smith and Sons Boat Company have had years of experience in the preparing and loading of boats for shipment The cradle used for this purpose and the bracing of the cradle and boat in the railroad car are such that the boat can shift and break loose only from extreme abuse Should it be found upon inspection that the seals are damaged or after opening the car that the boat has shifted the next step would be to notify the freight agent and have a notation made on the bill of lading stating your claim If however everything is found Okeh the boat may be un loaded on the truck The truck should be backed to the end of the railroad car and the stakes which hold the cradle in position should be care fully removed seeing to it that the boat is not damaged during this operation by the solippinfg a wrecking bar The stakes having been removed the next opera tion is removing all the cradle sbtarocnkgswhich hold the cradle down to the car floor by loosening and removing the bolts which fasten these strong backs through the bottom of the railroad car The next operation is to pry up the cradle and place a roller under same Should the platform of the truck be higher or lower than the floor of the railroad car a gradual incline of planking should be laid to enable the gradual rolling of the boat out of the railroad car and to prevent a sudden drop and jar to the boat due to the drop ping of a roller A small set of falls may be used in case the truck should not be provided with a winch to haul the boat onto the truck After the boat is placed on the truck we suggest at this stage of the unloading that a careful in spection be made of the contents of the boat against the equipment record a copy of which will be found with the instructions and pilot rules in the tool box also making sure that the front drain plug located under the intermediate seat is in place and screwed up thiagnhdt This being done replace the sbtarocnkgs across the cradle and if necessary holes should be drilled in the truck platform enabling the bolting down of the sbtarocnkgs to the truck platform in the samemanner as these were secured to the railroad car floor Blocking or stakes should be provided along the sides of the cradle to prevent same from moving sideways and if the truck is provided with a winch the cable should be left attached to the cradle with a sufficient strain to prevent the boat from moving backwards If the truck has not a winch the cradle should be tied securely to the truck in such a manner as to prevent its shifting during transit
Launching the Boat in most places where boats are used there will invariably also be found a shipyard or boat repair and livery place making a specialty of rendering service to boat owners These places are with few exceptions provided with means for handling boats We suggest that you secure the services of such a place as they have had experience in the handling of boats and will of course be anxious to give you prompt and careful attention They will feel that if they satisfy you with the launching of your boat you may favor them with your further patronage When the boat has been trucked to the launching place and same is provided with a crane or derrick sufficiently strong to lift the boat the launching is an easy matter For the time being the cradle may be left bolted to the truck and all that is necessary is to remove the two sbtarocnkgs next removing the nose piece which is bolted to the fair leader and unfasten the forward rtoides namely the one across the bow and the other across the stern of the boat Then unfasten the strut block and rtoides which prevented the boat from working backwards inthe cradle Removing all rods so that when the boat is swinging free from the cradle and the truck the rods cannot damage the boat When there is a strain on the derrick cable and the boat is swinging about three to four inches free of the truck but still above the truck it is good policy as a matter of safety for a few men to take hold of the boat and give it a couple of jerks with their added weight If the cable and fasteners stand the additional strain there is not much danger of anything giving way when the boat is swinging entirely free as long as the boom of the crane is operated within its limits If the boat cannot be unloaded directly from the truck into the water the cradle should be lifted with the boat offthe truck At this stage of the unloading install the pro peller wheel on the shaft as follows First place the wheel on the shaft You cannot make a mis take as the wheel is taper bored and will only go on one way See to it that the key way in the wheel lines up with the key way in the shaft Fastened to the wheel will be found a small mail ing bag containing one square shaft key one shaft nut and one cotter pin Second drive the square key in wheel and shaft Third screw shaft nut in place which automatically prevents wheel key from working out Draw this nut up good and tight After nut is in place insert cotter pin in slot of nut through shaft and bend over preventing cotter pin from working loose and falling out Care should be taken that the cotter key points are bent to lay close to nut and shaft end so they will not tend to pickup weeds Should it be found that the slot in the shaft nut does not line up with the cotter key hole in the shaft place a wrench on the nut and tap the end of the wrench with a hammer so as to still more tighten the nut If it is necessary to launch the boat on a beach proceed as follows Make a runway from the truck platform to the ground blocking the tim bers used for this purpose so they will easily hold the weight of the boat Block the truck as an extra safety If the truck is not equipped with a winch use a set of falls or block and tackle so as to enable the easy letting down of the boat from the truck to the ground When the boat is stand ing on the beach loosen all braces remove rods and install wheel as previously described in fore going paragraphs if this installation has not already been made as suggested Now lay some boards or planks and rollers under the cradle rolling the boat still on the cradle into the water Place more planks if needed on which the rollers can move until deep enough water is reached to permit the boat to float off the cradle If this method is employed it is suggested that the boat be launched bow first and when afloat the cradle be pulled out forward from under the boat so as to not damage the propeller and rudder Launching the Boat in most places where boats are used there will invariably also be found a shipyard or boat repair and livery place making a specialty of rendering service to boat owners These places are with few exceptions provided with means for handling boats We suggest that you secure the services of such a place as they have had experience in the handling of boats and will of course be anxious to give you prompt and careful attention They will feel that if they satisfy you with the launching of your boat you may favor them with your further patronage When the boat has been trucked to the launching place and same is provided with a crane or derrick sufficiently strong to lift the boat the launching is an easy matter For the time being the cradle may be left bolted to the truck and all that is necessary is to remove the two sbtarocnkgs next removing the nose piece which is bolted to the fair leader and unfasten the forward rtoides namely the one across the bow and the other across the stern of the boat Then unfasten the strut block and rtoides which prevented the boat from working backwards inthe cradle Removing all rods so that when the boat is swinging free from the cradle and the truck the rods cannot damage the boat When there is a strain on the derrick cable and the boat is swinging about three to four inches free of the truck but still above the truck it is good policy as a matter of safety for a few men to take hold of the boat and give it a couple of jerks with their added weight If the cable and fasteners stand the additional strain there is not much danger of anything giving way when the boat is swinging entirely free as long as the boom of the crane is operated within its limits If the boat cannot be unloaded directly from the truck into the water the cradle should be lifted with the boat offthe truck At this stage of the unloading install the pro peller wheel on the shaft as follows First place the wheel on the shaft You cannot make a mis take as the wheel is taper bored and will only go on one way See to it that the key way in the wheel lines up with the key way in the shaft Fastened to the wheel will be found a small mail ing bag containing one square shaft key one shaft nut and one cotter pin Second drive the square key in wheel and shaft Third screw shaft nut in place which automatically prevents wheel key from working out Draw this nut up good and tight After nut is in place insert cotter pin in slot of nut through shaft and bend over preventing cotter pin from working loose and falling out Care should be taken that the cotter key points are bent to lay close to nut and shaft end so they will not tend to pickup weeds Should it be found that the slot in the shaft nut does not line up with the cotter key hole in the shaft place a wrench on the nut and tap the end of the wrench with a hammer so as to still more tighten the nut If it is necessary to launch the boat on a beach proceed as follows Make a runway from the truck platform to the ground blocking the tim bers used for this purpose so they will easily hold the weight of the boat Block the truck as an extra safety If the truck is not equipped with a winch use a set of falls or block and tackle so as to enable the easy letting down of the boat from the truck to the ground When the boat is stand ing on the beach loosen all braces remove rods and install wheel as previously described in fore going paragraphs if this installation has not already been made as suggested Now lay some boards or planks and rollers under the cradle rolling the boat still on the cradle into the water Place more planks if needed on which the rollers can move until deep enough water is reached to permit the boat to float off the cradle If this method is employed it is suggested that the boat be launched bow first and when afloat the cradle be pulled out forward from under the boat so as to not damage the propeller and rudder
diagram diagram
First Care to be Given Hull and Engine Before Starting After or directly before the boat is launched it is important that all the paper be removed from the fblooarodsr This paper was put on the boards for protection of the linoleum but if left on while the boat is in use will soon fray and pieces of paper will work their way into the bilge of the boat clogging up the bsaeilelrf In the forward hatch two mooring lines or painters will be found The loop or eye of the longest line should be slipped over the bow light and led through the fairleader then brought back and led along side of the windshield to hang down into the forward cockpit in easy reach of the driver The eye of the stern line should be placed over the stern cleat and make certain that at all times this line when leaving a dock is pulled into the aft cockpit as otherwise it may trail overboard and become tangled up in the propeller wheel causing great inconvenience The paper should be removed from the flag poles and the stern flag pole placed in the flag pole socket provided for it on the aft deck Before doing this untie the string which holds the stern light wire fastened to the after deck flag pole socket which was done to prevent it from slipping under the deck Take this wire and plug it into the flag pole then put the flag pole in place and tighten the screw in the rear flag pole socket pre venting the pole from working loose and being dropped overboard The other flag pole with CChrarifst pennant is placed in the bow light which serves besides flag pole holder as mooring post Open the engine room hatch and connect the battery cable to the battery This was left un fastened so no damage would be done during transit Turn on the lights in the engine room and see that they work properly The switch for this will be found on the inside of the forward engine room bulkhead Fill the gasoline tanks with gasoline being care ful that when unfasten ing the gasoline tank caps they do not slip out of your hand and fall into the water Check up on the oil level in your motor For detailed direc tions as to the lubrication of the engine Engine Instruction Book will be found in the tool box Next insert the ignition key which is tied to the steering wheel during shipment into the ignition switch on the dash and turn on ignition see Note The autopulse gasoline pumps should now start functioning Leave the switch on until the gasoline pumps stop working and you know the carburetor float chamber is full Turn off the ignition switch then turn the dash light switch on and see that your bow and stern lights both work Observe that by turning the handle of the switch one way both the bow and stern lamps light while by turning the switch the other way the stern lamp will light only This is done so when lying at anchor at night your battery will not rundown The law requires that only a white light be shown which is visible from all points of the compass Sitting in the dsriver seat take hold of the clutch lever and put same in neutral We sug gest so as to get used to the feel of the clutch mechanism you move the lever forward until it locks The clutch is now engaged in the forward speed Then pull the lever back through neutral all the way Now the clutch is engaged in the reverse Put the lever backinthe neutral position Note CCrharfitss starting with the 1929 line powered with CChrarifst Marine Engines are equipped with an tahnetfit switch in the form of a single pole single throw knife switch installed on the forward engine room bulkhead inside of the engine compartment The opening of this switch disconnects the battery from the lighting as well as ignition cir cuit and also the circuit between starter button and remote control switch Of course care should be ttahkaentthis switch is cilonsed boats so equipped Do Not Omit to Fill Gas Tanks Make Certain of Oil in Engine Base First Care to be Given Hull and Engine Before Starting After or directly before the boat is launched it is important that all the paper be removed from the fblooarodsr This paper was put on the boards for protection of the linoleum but if left on while the boat is in use will soon fray and pieces of paper will work their way into the bilge of the boat clogging up the bsaeilelrf In the forward hatch two mooring lines or painters will be found The loop or eye of the longest line should be slipped over the bow light and led through the fairleader then brought back and led along side of the windshield to hang down into the forward cockpit in easy reach of the driver The eye of the stern line should be placed over the stern cleat and make certain that at all times this line when leaving a dock is pulled into the aft cockpit as otherwise it may trail overboard and become tangled up in the propeller wheel causing great inconvenience The paper should be removed from the flag poles and the stern flag pole placed in the flag pole socket provided for it on the aft deck Before doing this untie the string which holds the stern light wire fastened to the after deck flag pole socket which was done to prevent it from slipping under the deck Take this wire and plug it into the flag pole then put the flag pole in place and tighten the screw in the rear flag pole socket pre venting the pole from working loose and being dropped overboard The other flag pole with CChrarifst pennant is placed in the bow light which serves besides flag pole holder as mooring post Open the engine room hatch and connect the battery cable to the battery This was left un fastened so no damage would be done during transit Turn on the lights in the engine room and see that they work properly The switch for this will be found on the inside of the forward engine room bulkhead Fill the gasoline tanks with gasoline being care ful that when unfasten ing the gasoline tank caps they do not slip out of your hand and fall into the water Check up on the oil level in your motor For detailed direc tions as to the lubrication of the engine Engine Instruction Book will be found in the tool box Next insert the ignition key which is tied to the steering wheel during shipment into the ignition switch on the dash and turn on ignition see Note The autopulse gasoline pumps should now start functioning Leave the switch on until the gasoline pumps stop working and you know the carburetor float chamber is full Turn off the ignition switch then turn the dash light switch on and see that your bow and stern lights both work Observe that by turning the handle of the switch one way both the bow and stern lamps light while by turning the switch the other way the stern lamp will light only This is done so when lying at anchor at night your battery will not rundown The law requires that only a white light be shown which is visible from all points of the compass Sitting in the dsriver seat take hold of the clutch lever and put same in neutral We sug gest so as to get used to the feel of the clutch mechanism you move the lever forward until it locks The clutch is now engaged in the forward speed Then pull the lever back through neutral all the way Now the clutch is engaged in the reverse Put the lever backinthe neutral position Note CCrharfitss starting with the 1929 line powered with CChrarifst Marine Engines are equipped with an tahnetfit switch in the form of a single pole single throw knife switch installed on the forward engine room bulkhead inside of the engine compartment The opening of this switch disconnects the battery from the lighting as well as ignition cir cuit and also the circuit between starter button and remote control switch Of course care should be ttahkaentthis switch is cilonsed boats so equipped Do Not Omit to Fill Gas Tanks Make Certain of Oil in Engine Base
hull diagram hull diagram
plate 3 plate 3
plate 4 plate 4
Starting the Engine Turn on the ignition switch retard the spark by moving the control lever located on the sgteerir wheel on the left or port side all the way upwards Open the throttle control lever which is the other lever on the steering wheel and located on the right or starboard side tohniredof the way from its highest position down See note also Plates 14 15 and 16 Pull out the choke and press down on the starter button located on the toe board with the right foot After a few revolutions the engine will start As soon as the engine starts push the choke back and advance the spark by pulling the spark lever down Immediately motor starts close gas throttle so motor will idle at from 300 to 500 RPMuntil ready to leave dock Under No Circumstances Turn the Engine up to its fullRPMas Listed in the Catalog Keep it within Four to Six HundredRPM of the Esngine Capacity for at least the First Fifty Running Hours Should the engine at the beginning run irregu larly pull out the choke for an instant until the engine picks up and fires regularly then push choke back against the dash Watch the gauges on the dash and see that the oil pressure registers oil pressure and the ammeter registers charge Before untieing the boat see to it that the water circulation is functioning properly The proper functioning of the water circulation may be observed by differentiating between the loud noise when the engine starts and the muffled exhaust when the water is circulating This difference in exhaust sound should be ob served within hoanlef minute from the time the engine starts running on its own power During all the foregoing you should not race the engine for several reasons the main one of which is that during the time the motor was not running all the lubricating oil has drained from the cylin der walls pistons etcetera back into the base of the motor and a little time should be given for the oil to start properly circulating again cover ing all moving parts with a film of oil In other words give your engine a chance and thereby your whole boat as the success of your boat is integral with the success of your engine and we all know that the success of your motor is greatly dependent upon the care with which the motor is broken in and it is the same with a marine motor and boat running gear as it is with the chassis ofyour automobile Note On models1378014and 15 the spark hand control lever is disconnected The distri butor used on the CChrarifst Marine Motor with which these models are powered are pro vided with automatic advance Steering the Boat It is impossible to go into details as to every goes to the right or what we call starboard side contingency and all conditions which may be encountered when out in the open water How ever we will describe a few of the most frequent instances We assume that the engine is running and every thing is performing properly as indicated in the foregoing paragraphs The driver should now see to it that all his passengers are properly seated and then untie the mooring lines placing these in the boat as described in a previous part of the book The bow of the boat should next be shoved off slightly by means of the boat hook which is fur nished with each boat The rudder should be straight Inoher words the steering wheel should be between its two extreme limits and this being done no difficulty will be experienced in leaving the dock Under no circumstances try to leave a dock quickly by turning the wheel all the way in the direction away from the dock as this would cause the stern to swing against the landing damaging the hull The boat steers the same as an automobile When you turn the wheel to the right the boat when you turn the wheel to the left or port side the boat will go to port The difference of the response to the wheel in an automobile and a boat lies therein that when you turn the automobile steering wheel the forward part of the car will start moving first in that direction and the rear end of the car will follow In a boat it is just the opposite in that the stern of the boat will start swinging first and into the opposite direction in which the steering wheel is turned This will point the boat into the direc tion in which you want to go In backing the boat out of a narrow channel it will be found that the stern of the boat tends to go one way depending upon the rotation of the propeller With theCChrarifst it will be noted that the stern of the boat tends to move towards the port or left hand side The proper way to back out is to obtain sufficient swtearyn and backing out handle the steering wheel the same as you would in an automobile Should on account of the previous described tendency the stern of your boat approach too near a bank or dock slow down the motor and shift Starting the Engine Turn on the ignition switch retard the spark by moving the control lever located on the sgteerir wheel on the left or port side all the way upwards Open the throttle control lever which is the other lever on the steering wheel and located on the right or starboard side tohniredof the way from its highest position down See note also Plates 14 15 and 16 Pull out the choke and press down on the starter button located on the toe board with the right foot After a few revolutions the engine will start As soon as the engine starts push the choke back and advance the spark by pulling the spark lever down Immediately motor starts close gas throttle so motor will idle at from 300 to 500 RPMuntil ready to leave dock Under No Circumstances Turn the Engine up to its fullRPMas Listed in the Catalog Keep it within Four to Six HundredRPM of the Esngine Capacity for at least the First Fifty Running Hours Should the engine at the beginning run irregu larly pull out the choke for an instant until the engine picks up and fires regularly then push choke back against the dash Watch the gauges on the dash and see that the oil pressure registers oil pressure and the ammeter registers charge Before untieing the boat see to it that the water circulation is functioning properly The proper functioning of the water circulation may be observed by differentiating between the loud noise when the engine starts and the muffled exhaust when the water is circulating This difference in exhaust sound should be ob served within hoanlef minute from the time the engine starts running on its own power During all the foregoing you should not race the engine for several reasons the main one of which is that during the time the motor was not running all the lubricating oil has drained from the cylin der walls pistons etcetera back into the base of the motor and a little time should be given for the oil to start properly circulating again cover ing all moving parts with a film of oil In other words give your engine a chance and thereby your whole boat as the success of your boat is integral with the success of your engine and we all know that the success of your motor is greatly dependent upon the care with which the motor is broken in and it is the same with a marine motor and boat running gear as it is with the chassis ofyour automobile Note On models1378014and 15 the spark hand control lever is disconnected The distri butor used on the CChrarifst Marine Motor with which these models are powered are pro vided with automatic advance Steering the Boat It is impossible to go into details as to every goes to the right or what we call starboard side contingency and all conditions which may be encountered when out in the open water How ever we will describe a few of the most frequent instances We assume that the engine is running and every thing is performing properly as indicated in the foregoing paragraphs The driver should now see to it that all his passengers are properly seated and then untie the mooring lines placing these in the boat as described in a previous part of the book The bow of the boat should next be shoved off slightly by means of the boat hook which is fur nished with each boat The rudder should be straight Inoher words the steering wheel should be between its two extreme limits and this being done no difficulty will be experienced in leaving the dock Under no circumstances try to leave a dock quickly by turning the wheel all the way in the direction away from the dock as this would cause the stern to swing against the landing damaging the hull The boat steers the same as an automobile When you turn the wheel to the right the boat when you turn the wheel to the left or port side the boat will go to port The difference of the response to the wheel in an automobile and a boat lies therein that when you turn the automobile steering wheel the forward part of the car will start moving first in that direction and the rear end of the car will follow In a boat it is just the opposite in that the stern of the boat will start swinging first and into the opposite direction in which the steering wheel is turned This will point the boat into the direc tion in which you want to go In backing the boat out of a narrow channel it will be found that the stern of the boat tends to go one way depending upon the rotation of the propeller With theCChrarifst it will be noted that the stern of the boat tends to move towards the port or left hand side The proper way to back out is to obtain sufficient swtearyn and backing out handle the steering wheel the same as you would in an automobile Should on account of the previous described tendency the stern of your boat approach too near a bank or dock slow down the motor and shift
plate 5 plate 5
from reverse into ahead At the same time turn the steering wheel hard overas if you intend to run your boat into the bank you are approach ing Now give your boat a kick ahead which is done by opening the throttle for an instant and then shutting your motor down again For the result of this action and its explanation we refer to the foregoing paragraph from which you will remember that the stern of the boat will start swinging first and into the opposite direction in which the steering wheel is turned In other words giving a quick resume the engine having been slowed down the clutch having been put in a forward position the steering wheel having been put hard over towards the direction of the bank you were approaching when backing up and the motor having been speeded up the stern will swing in the opposite direction in which the wheel was turned the stern will swing away from the bank which was the result desired The boat now being straightened on its course proceed with the backing repeating this maneuver as the length of channel may require Remember that aboat will notobey its rud der without having head orswtearyn In addition we refer you to Illustrations No 14 No 15 and 16 showing CChrarifst Controls for all models from one to eighteen inclusive Care of the Boat During the Season While the boat is being used regularly during the season very little attention is required as to its upkeep To insure the maintaining of performance and speed it is advisable that when not in use the boat is raised clear of the water so as to avoid the boat becoming lwogagteedr However this pro cedure is not essential except when maximum performance is desired Itis preferable of course that a boat be kept under cover in a hboouaset provided with a well and with two chain falls If such a place is not available we suggest that you purchase one of the full canvas covers so that the boat will be protected while lying at its mooring Only in extreme cases is it necessary to repaint the bottom of theboat during the season To keep up the good appearance of the hull it is recommended that same be kept clean and from time to time given a good polish and rub A good furniture polish may be used while for the metal trim a good silver polish is recommended As to the care and maintenance of the engine we refer you to the Engine Instruction Book which is part of the standard equipment of this boat CCrharfitss used in salt water and especially those used in salt and southern waters should receive if possible once a month an inspection to ascertain the smoothness of the bottom If it is found that barnacles and sea growth are accumu lating or tending to start to accumulate it is advisable that the bottom and sides up to the waterline be scrubbed down to remove these growths which naturally when left on or per mitted to accumulate further would cause a drop in speed Not every time that the bottom has been scrubbed is it necessary to apply a coat of faounlintgi bottom paint but whether this is necessary after the scrubbing may be easily judged Before painting bottom it is advisable to permit the boat to dry out The Full Automatic Bailer Should the boat not readily expel the bilge water while running it is very likely that some paper which was not removed from the floor boards or possibly some leaves which may have blown into the boat have obstructed the auto matic bailer To correct this condition proceed as follows lift off the aft seat cushion and seat covering board On the 26 foot and larger models in the 1929 line it will be noted that this pipe is provided with a screen to prevent the entering of foreign matter into the self bailer Boats of the 1928 and earlier models are not equipped with screen nor are the 22 and 24 footers of the 1929 line When the bsaeilelrfdoes not function it will be found that the cleaning of this screen will invari ably correct this condition Should this not be the case however the following procedure is neces sary on all models Take out the two wood screws AUnloosen clamp screwBand bailer loop Cwith lifting pipeDmay be lifted out of the aft seat compartment in one assembly tubeE remaining in the boat TubeEis of sufficient height and carried above the water line to prevent any water from running into the boat while cleaning bailer loop and lifting tube see plate 7 Remove any obstructions which may be lodged in the loop or bailer hull fitting and replace the parts This bailer is fully automatic in operation the loop being carried sufficiently high to prevent water from entering the boat while a small flapper valve on the outside of the bailer casting prevents any water from siphoning back into the boat from reverse into ahead At the same time turn the steering wheel hard overas if you intend to run your boat into the bank you are approach ing Now give your boat a kick ahead which is done by opening the throttle for an instant and then shutting your motor down again For the result of this action and its explanation we refer to the foregoing paragraph from which you will remember that the stern of the boat will start swinging first and into the opposite direction in which the steering wheel is turned In other words giving a quick resume the engine having been slowed down the clutch having been put in a forward position the steering wheel having been put hard over towards the direction of the bank you were approaching when backing up and the motor having been speeded up the stern will swing in the opposite direction in which the wheel was turned the stern will swing away from the bank which was the result desired The boat now being straightened on its course proceed with the backing repeating this maneuver as the length of channel may require Remember that aboat will notobey its rud der without having head orswtearyn In addition we refer you to Illustrations No 14 No 15 and 16 showing CChrarifst Controls for all models from one to eighteen inclusive Care of the Boat During the Season While the boat is being used regularly during the season very little attention is required as to its upkeep To insure the maintaining of performance and speed it is advisable that when not in use the boat is raised clear of the water so as to avoid the boat becoming lwogagteedr However this pro cedure is not essential except when maximum performance is desired Itis preferable of course that a boat be kept under cover in a hboouaset provided with a well and with two chain falls If such a place is not available we suggest that you purchase one of the full canvas covers so that the boat will be protected while lying at its mooring Only in extreme cases is it necessary to repaint the bottom of theboat during the season To keep up the good appearance of the hull it is recommended that same be kept clean and from time to time given a good polish and rub A good furniture polish may be used while for the metal trim a good silver polish is recommended As to the care and maintenance of the engine we refer you to the Engine Instruction Book which is part of the standard equipment of this boat CCrharfitss used in salt water and especially those used in salt and southern waters should receive if possible once a month an inspection to ascertain the smoothness of the bottom If it is found that barnacles and sea growth are accumu lating or tending to start to accumulate it is advisable that the bottom and sides up to the waterline be scrubbed down to remove these growths which naturally when left on or per mitted to accumulate further would cause a drop in speed Not every time that the bottom has been scrubbed is it necessary to apply a coat of faounlintgi bottom paint but whether this is necessary after the scrubbing may be easily judged Before painting bottom it is advisable to permit the boat to dry out The Full Automatic Bailer Should the boat not readily expel the bilge water while running it is very likely that some paper which was not removed from the floor boards or possibly some leaves which may have blown into the boat have obstructed the auto matic bailer To correct this condition proceed as follows lift off the aft seat cushion and seat covering board On the 26 foot and larger models in the 1929 line it will be noted that this pipe is provided with a screen to prevent the entering of foreign matter into the self bailer Boats of the 1928 and earlier models are not equipped with screen nor are the 22 and 24 footers of the 1929 line When the bsaeilelrfdoes not function it will be found that the cleaning of this screen will invari ably correct this condition Should this not be the case however the following procedure is neces sary on all models Take out the two wood screws AUnloosen clamp screwBand bailer loop Cwith lifting pipeDmay be lifted out of the aft seat compartment in one assembly tubeE remaining in the boat TubeEis of sufficient height and carried above the water line to prevent any water from running into the boat while cleaning bailer loop and lifting tube see plate 7 Remove any obstructions which may be lodged in the loop or bailer hull fitting and replace the parts This bailer is fully automatic in operation the loop being carried sufficiently high to prevent water from entering the boat while a small flapper valve on the outside of the bailer casting prevents any water from siphoning back into the boat
Care of Stuffing Boxes It is advisable from time to time to inspect the two stuffing boxes on the boat namely the pro peller shaft stuffing box and the rudder stuffing box The propeller stuffing box is easily accessible by the removal of the aft cockpit floor board This stuffing box is bolted to the bronze shaft log and the joint between stuffing box and the shaft log is kept tight by a gasket in that place The shaft stuffing box is packed with braided waxed hemp packing or just ordinary candle wicking greased with Kasson grease which is a water proof lubricating grease manufactured by the Enter prise Oil Company of Buffalo New York and will also answer the purpose Should it be found that the propeller shaft stuffing box is slightly leaking this does not necessarily indicate that the stuffing box needs repacking All it is necessary to do is to loosen the stuffing box lock nut and tighten up the stuffing box packing nut again securing same by tightening up the lock nut after this pro cedure Should after some use of the boat the stuffing box again show signs of leakage it is then suggested that you entirely unscrew the stuffing box packing nut Remove all old packing which may remain in same and replace with new packing as previously indicated The way to do this is to wind the packing around the shaft laying the packing on the shaft towards the motor and holding it there with tahunmdb index finger Then wind it around the shaft towards the stern and in the opposite direction that you unscrewed the stuffing box packing nut After sufficient packing has been wound around the shaft to practically fill the stuffing box packing nut slide this nut towards the stuffing box and screw it over the packing helping it to enter with a screw driver Then replace the packing nut on the stuffing box gland After this lock with the lock nut This same procedure may be followed with the rudder stuffing box but it will hardly ever be found that the latter needs repacking Should the propeller shaft stuffing box still show signs of leaking after all these precautions have been taken it is then suggested that you go and see your nearest CChrarifst dealer and ask him to investigate the trouble as then the possibility exists that the shaft log may not be properly lined up the original factory alignment having been affected by working of the wood Adjust ment of the stuffing box and shaft log either horizontally or vertically in the same plane may readily be made without interfering with the shaft log to keel fastenings as holes in stuffing box are left large enough and also slotted to permit the adjustment If however the planes of the stuffing box and shaft log faces are out of parallel a reshimming of the shaft log will have to be done This however practically never Care of Stuffing Boxes It is advisable from time to time to inspect the two stuffing boxes on the boat namely the pro peller shaft stuffing box and the rudder stuffing box The propeller stuffing box is easily accessible by the removal of the aft cockpit floor board This stuffing box is bolted to the bronze shaft log and the joint between stuffing box and the shaft log is kept tight by a gasket in that place The shaft stuffing box is packed with braided waxed hemp packing or just ordinary candle wicking greased with Kasson grease which is a water proof lubricating grease manufactured by the Enter prise Oil Company of Buffalo New York and will also answer the purpose Should it be found that the propeller shaft stuffing box is slightly leaking this does not necessarily indicate that the stuffing box needs repacking All it is necessary to do is to loosen the stuffing box lock nut and tighten up the stuffing box packing nut again securing same by tightening up the lock nut after this pro cedure Should after some use of the boat the stuffing box again show signs of leakage it is then suggested that you entirely unscrew the stuffing box packing nut Remove all old packing which may remain in same and replace with new packing as previously indicated The way to do this is to wind the packing around the shaft laying the packing on the shaft towards the motor and holding it there with tahunmdb index finger Then wind it around the shaft towards the stern and in the opposite direction that you unscrewed the stuffing box packing nut After sufficient packing has been wound around the shaft to practically fill the stuffing box packing nut slide this nut towards the stuffing box and screw it over the packing helping it to enter with a screw driver Then replace the packing nut on the stuffing box gland After this lock with the lock nut This same procedure may be followed with the rudder stuffing box but it will hardly ever be found that the latter needs repacking Should the propeller shaft stuffing box still show signs of leaking after all these precautions have been taken it is then suggested that you go and see your nearest CChrarifst dealer and ask him to investigate the trouble as then the possibility exists that the shaft log may not be properly lined up the original factory alignment having been affected by working of the wood Adjust ment of the stuffing box and shaft log either horizontally or vertically in the same plane may readily be made without interfering with the shaft log to keel fastenings as holes in stuffing box are left large enough and also slotted to permit the adjustment If however the planes of the stuffing box and shaft log faces are out of parallel a reshimming of the shaft log will have to be done This however practically never
plate 6 plate 6
First Aid Suggestions Motor Troubles As space does not permit us we will not go into details explaining difficulties encountered with the engine for the reason that each engine is fully covered in the motor instruction book which is supplied with each tool kit but we will cover those outside influences which may affect the engine not being a direct part of same but influencing its performance Motor Will Not Start A Motor does not roll over when pressing down the starter button In the above case there arethree possibilities 1 The battery is dead 2 There is a broken circuit 3 The trouble is in the starter proper Trace the difficulty in the same sequence as the three above possibilities are mentioned The easiest method to determine whether the battery is at fault or the battery post connectors is by turning on the dash light and stepping on the starter button If the light burns brightly but turns to a dim red or goes out entirely imme diately when the starter button is pressed down you may feel certain that the trouble is either in the battery itself or the cable connections on the battery post are oxidized and corroded To ascertain the condition of the battery test each cell with a hydrometer and the acid should at least indicate 1200 to 1300 specific gravity If the liquid is down too far in some of the cells or all the cells and if it does not properly cover the plates we cannot of course use a hydrometer and we then have to test the battery with a high rate discharge meter Each cell regardless of the strength of the battery should give the same inclination to the needle on the voltmeter which is connected in parallel to the high rate resistance unit of the discharge meter If this inclination or reading is the same for each cell it indicates that the battery is in good condition but it should at least show 17 volt for the battery to have enough current to turn the starter In other words if the battery shows one half a volt on each and every cell the battery is in good mechanical condition but is discharged which would automatically explain your difficulty If in a six volt battery two cells show about equal and one low or in a six cell battery234and 5 cells show higher than432 or 1 cells it indicates that the battery is in poor condition and even before attempting to charge it it should be taken down and the separators examined also the condition of the plates If you are away from a service station have no hydrometer and of course no high rate discharge meter available there is one other method by which the battery may be tested but this method should only be used in extreme emergencies because of the danger connected with the practice also the harm which may be done to the battery The method is as follows Take a pair of pliers and open these so that the handle of the pliers will straddle the posts of one cell Place one handle on one pole of any cell and pass the other handle quickly over the other pole of the same cell This should draw a heavy spark See that all cells spark but if you use this method you do so at your own risk as we do not recom mend it Ifit has now been found by any of the three above methods that the battery is all right it is necessary then to look for the trouble elsewhere The wiring system as will be noted is extremely simple A cable runs from the negative pole of the battery to the ground or the frame of the engine From the positive terminal it leads to the remote control switch which is the little metal box fastened on the forward engine room bulkhead on the inside of the engine compartment and a third cable runs from the other pole of the remote control switch to the starter The other pole of the starter of course is automatically grounded on the motor The starter button located on the toe board when depressed com pletes the circuit of a small solenoid To exite this solenoid in the remote control switch only a current of very small amperage is required This solenoid in turn operates the actual starting switch contained in the remote control unit and completes the circuit through the starter The reason for the use of this remote control switch is to avoid a potential drop of current and waste of energy which would be practically unavoidable if the cables which carry the actual starting current would have to run all the way to the toe board and back to the engine compartment This loss is avoided by the use of the remote control switch as same is placed in such a position making the shortest cable connections between battery and starter box possible at the same time still retaining the advantage of having the starter button conveniently located at the dsriver foot Remove the two battery cables from the battery and observe whether these are oxidized Scrape the battery post with a jkancifke also thorough ly clean all oxidation which may be found in the battery cable clamps Now replace both battery cables on the battery tightening both clamps up absolutely tight We wish to mention at this time that 905 of all starting trouble may be traced directly to the oxidation of the connection between the battery cables and battery proper Therefore not enough care can be exercised in making sure that the connection is perfect First Aid Suggestions Motor Troubles As space does not permit us we will not go into details explaining difficulties encountered with the engine for the reason that each engine is fully covered in the motor instruction book which is supplied with each tool kit but we will cover those outside influences which may affect the engine not being a direct part of same but influencing its performance Motor Will Not Start A Motor does not roll over when pressing down the starter button In the above case there arethree possibilities 1 The battery is dead 2 There is a broken circuit 3 The trouble is in the starter proper Trace the difficulty in the same sequence as the three above possibilities are mentioned The easiest method to determine whether the battery is at fault or the battery post connectors is by turning on the dash light and stepping on the starter button If the light burns brightly but turns to a dim red or goes out entirely imme diately when the starter button is pressed down you may feel certain that the trouble is either in the battery itself or the cable connections on the battery post are oxidized and corroded To ascertain the condition of the battery test each cell with a hydrometer and the acid should at least indicate 1200 to 1300 specific gravity If the liquid is down too far in some of the cells or all the cells and if it does not properly cover the plates we cannot of course use a hydrometer and we then have to test the battery with a high rate discharge meter Each cell regardless of the strength of the battery should give the same inclination to the needle on the voltmeter which is connected in parallel to the high rate resistance unit of the discharge meter If this inclination or reading is the same for each cell it indicates that the battery is in good condition but it should at least show 17 volt for the battery to have enough current to turn the starter In other words if the battery shows one half a volt on each and every cell the battery is in good mechanical condition but is discharged which would automatically explain your difficulty If in a six volt battery two cells show about equal and one low or in a six cell battery234and 5 cells show higher than432 or 1 cells it indicates that the battery is in poor condition and even before attempting to charge it it should be taken down and the separators examined also the condition of the plates If you are away from a service station have no hydrometer and of course no high rate discharge meter available there is one other method by which the battery may be tested but this method should only be used in extreme emergencies because of the danger connected with the practice also the harm which may be done to the battery The method is as follows Take a pair of pliers and open these so that the handle of the pliers will straddle the posts of one cell Place one handle on one pole of any cell and pass the other handle quickly over the other pole of the same cell This should draw a heavy spark See that all cells spark but if you use this method you do so at your own risk as we do not recom mend it Ifit has now been found by any of the three above methods that the battery is all right it is necessary then to look for the trouble elsewhere The wiring system as will be noted is extremely simple A cable runs from the negative pole of the battery to the ground or the frame of the engine From the positive terminal it leads to the remote control switch which is the little metal box fastened on the forward engine room bulkhead on the inside of the engine compartment and a third cable runs from the other pole of the remote control switch to the starter The other pole of the starter of course is automatically grounded on the motor The starter button located on the toe board when depressed com pletes the circuit of a small solenoid To exite this solenoid in the remote control switch only a current of very small amperage is required This solenoid in turn operates the actual starting switch contained in the remote control unit and completes the circuit through the starter The reason for the use of this remote control switch is to avoid a potential drop of current and waste of energy which would be practically unavoidable if the cables which carry the actual starting current would have to run all the way to the toe board and back to the engine compartment This loss is avoided by the use of the remote control switch as same is placed in such a position making the shortest cable connections between battery and starter box possible at the same time still retaining the advantage of having the starter button conveniently located at the dsriver foot Remove the two battery cables from the battery and observe whether these are oxidized Scrape the battery post with a jkancifke also thorough ly clean all oxidation which may be found in the battery cable clamps Now replace both battery cables on the battery tightening both clamps up absolutely tight We wish to mention at this time that 905 of all starting trouble may be traced directly to the oxidation of the connection between the battery cables and battery proper Therefore not enough care can be exercised in making sure that the connection is perfect
Next examine the ground connection and also and exert with a small piece of wood a pressure the starter connection If you are satisfied that on the brush in question If this should produce all these connections are Okeh again press down results you know that either the spring of the on the starter button If now the motor still brush is broken lost its temper or the brush is refuses to turn over take a pair of pliers and worn out Also after this has been done sand connect with the handles of these pliers the two paper the commutator if same seems badly burned terminals on the remote control switch to and corroded which the heavy cables or starting cables are If after all the foregoing the starter still refuses fastened If the motor should roll over now the to function it is suggested that an expert prefer trouble is either in the remote control switch ably a CChrarifst service station be consulted itself or in the circuit connecting the starter and if the trouble is actually traced to the starter button to the remote control switch which circuit that same be sent to a DRelmcoy service should be inspected in that instance in the same station for inspection and if found defective have manner as you have traced the battery circuit to same reconditioned starter If out of reach of any service station we suggest If after the above however the motor still that you get everything set for starting being refuses to roll over then remove the starter sure to retard the spark lever on the steering brush cover Take hold of each brush and wheel the clutch in neutral the choke pulled out examine its pressure on the commutator Lift the ignition key on and the autopulse filled and it slightly off the commutator and feel whether crank the motor over with the crank or starting due pressure is exerted on same If in doubt and bar provided with each CChrarifst Where it one of the brushes is weak it is suggested that takes a considerable amount of electricity to start you have somebody step on the starter button the motor with the starter a very small current Next examine the ground connection and also and exert with a small piece of wood a pressure the starter connection If you are satisfied that on the brush in question If this should produce all these connections are Okeh again press down results you know that either the spring of the on the starter button If now the motor still brush is broken lost its temper or the brush is refuses to turn over take a pair of pliers and worn out Also after this has been done sand connect with the handles of these pliers the two paper the commutator if same seems badly burned terminals on the remote control switch to and corroded which the heavy cables or starting cables are If after all the foregoing the starter still refuses fastened If the motor should roll over now the to function it is suggested that an expert prefer trouble is either in the remote control switch ably a CChrarifst service station be consulted itself or in the circuit connecting the starter and if the trouble is actually traced to the starter button to the remote control switch which circuit that same be sent to a DRelmcoy service should be inspected in that instance in the same station for inspection and if found defective have manner as you have traced the battery circuit to same reconditioned starter If out of reach of any service station we suggest If after the above however the motor still that you get everything set for starting being refuses to roll over then remove the starter sure to retard the spark lever on the steering brush cover Take hold of each brush and wheel the clutch in neutral the choke pulled out examine its pressure on the commutator Lift the ignition key on and the autopulse filled and it slightly off the commutator and feel whether crank the motor over with the crank or starting due pressure is exerted on same If in doubt and bar provided with each CChrarifst Where it one of the brushes is weak it is suggested that takes a considerable amount of electricity to start you have somebody step on the starter button the motor with the starter a very small current
is needed to furnish sufficient supply for the ignition When therefore starting the motor by hand no current is wasted for starting and the available current is in most cases sufficient for supplying the ignition As soon as the motor starts operating sufficient additional current is supplied by the generator to reach a service station B The motor rolls over freely with sstaertelfr but refuses to start If the above is the case take the foot off the starter button as you are just wasting current and running down your battery 1 Check your ignition 2 Check the gasoline supply To check the ignition proceed as follows Turn off the ignition switch Remove the distributor cap Remove the distributor secondary or high tension brush Roll the motor over by cranking or starting bar until the breaker points touch Take a small wooden stick or match and after having turned on the ignition switch separate the breaker points with this implement and a strong primary spark should be seen between the points If this is the case your primary circuit is intact If there is no spark check the low tension wire from the distributor to the coil from the coil to the switch ammeter and the one leading to the battery making certain that all these connections are Okeh Now take a very fine preferably a point file and clean the breaker contact points After all this is done and a good spark is obtained replace distributor brush and distributor cap and try to start your engine again If the motor still does not start check high tension or ignition current Remove the central wire which is the high tension wire coming from the coil and hold this wire one quarter of an inch from any metal part of the engine Turn on the ignition switch and have somebody press on the starter Now a good spark should show between the high tension wire and the motor If this spark is there there apparently is nothing wrong with the ignition system and replace the wire in the distributor If no spark or only a weak spark shows trace this wire and see it is properly fastened to the coil Ifstill a weak spark or there is no spark then the trouble is in the coil or coils and we suggest that the boat be taken at the first opportunity to a CChrarifst service station or a DRelmcoyman be consulted is needed to furnish sufficient supply for the ignition When therefore starting the motor by hand no current is wasted for starting and the available current is in most cases sufficient for supplying the ignition As soon as the motor starts operating sufficient additional current is supplied by the generator to reach a service station B The motor rolls over freely with sstaertelfr but refuses to start If the above is the case take the foot off the starter button as you are just wasting current and running down your battery 1 Check your ignition 2 Check the gasoline supply To check the ignition proceed as follows Turn off the ignition switch Remove the distributor cap Remove the distributor secondary or high tension brush Roll the motor over by cranking or starting bar until the breaker points touch Take a small wooden stick or match and after having turned on the ignition switch separate the breaker points with this implement and a strong primary spark should be seen between the points If this is the case your primary circuit is intact If there is no spark check the low tension wire from the distributor to the coil from the coil to the switch ammeter and the one leading to the battery making certain that all these connections are Okeh Now take a very fine preferably a point file and clean the breaker contact points After all this is done and a good spark is obtained replace distributor brush and distributor cap and try to start your engine again If the motor still does not start check high tension or ignition current Remove the central wire which is the high tension wire coming from the coil and hold this wire one quarter of an inch from any metal part of the engine Turn on the ignition switch and have somebody press on the starter Now a good spark should show between the high tension wire and the motor If this spark is there there apparently is nothing wrong with the ignition system and replace the wire in the distributor If no spark or only a weak spark shows trace this wire and see it is properly fastened to the coil Ifstill a weak spark or there is no spark then the trouble is in the coil or coils and we suggest that the boat be taken at the first opportunity to a CChrarifst service station or a DRelmcoyman be consulted
The Motor Will Not Start the Ignition Having gas pump is functioning properly See complete Been Found All Right instructions covering autopulse in following Check the tanks and see that you have gasoline chapters If there is sufficient gasoline make sure that If all the foregoing fail consult a CChrarifst there is gasoline in the carburetor and that the service station The Motor Will Not Start the Ignition Having gas pump is functioning properly See complete Been Found All Right instructions covering autopulse in following Check the tanks and see that you have gasoline chapters If there is sufficient gasoline make sure that If all the foregoing fail consult a CChrarifst there is gasoline in the carburetor and that the service station
Drop in Revolutions When the tachometer indicates a drop of revolu tions invariably the engine is blamed However upon investigation the cause will be found in most cases attributable to another cause 1 2 3 4 One or More Cylinders DoNot Function To ascertain if all cylinders of the engine are firing take a screw driver with an insulated handle Wood will do but if the metal part of the screw driver runs on through the handle be careful not to touch this metal part Now lay the metal part of the screw driver on the spark plug screw where high tension wire fastens and cut out the plug by touching the cylinder head If the motor sounds different and boat slows down this indicates that that particular cylinder is functioning properly If however no difference is noticed the cylinder does not work Stop the motor Take out the plug and clean same or replace with a new one There are two new plugs furnished in every tool kit for each boat After plug has been inserted and wire fastened start up motor and check all other cylinders by the same method Bent or Damaged Propeller Wheel Check this by lifting the stern of the boat free of the water and examine the propeller A bend is not necessarily discernible to the bare eye due to the fact that it is not neces sary for a propeller wheel to come in con tact with an obstruction to bend Sharp turning of the boat at full speed may cause bending of propeller wheel and this may not be discernible to the bare eye but has to be checked on a propeller gauge or may be determined indirectly by installing a new propeller and noting the difference in the performance with the old and new wheel When the Drop in Revolutions Has Been Coming on Gradually This may be due to the condition of the hull and bottom as the hull may be water logged or the bottom may be foul When the con dition of the bottom of the boat is Okeh and same is free of barnacles the boat may be water logged which may be overcome by hoisting the boat up for a few days and letting it dry out thoroughly Then apply a coat of bottom paint Should the hull be covered with barnacles and other growth the bottom should be scraped the hull dried and one or two coats of good faounlintgipaint applied The Boat Comes Up to Revolutions But After a Short Run the Revolutions Drop This will invariably be traced to the gasoline supply in the engine and upon examination it will be found that one of the autopulse units is lagging Or if all units show the same action but do not supply sufficient gasoline a quantity of water or rust may be seen in the glass bowl clogging up the fine screen mesh of strainer This condition should be corrected by cleaning gasoline pumps by following instructions covering the autopulse fully in chapter headed The Electric Gasoline Pump If pumps are cleaned and yet refuse to readily supply a sufficient amount of gasoline the gasoline line from the tank has become obstructed Remove the gasoline line coming from the tank and running to the autopulses at autopulses and bearing down the tube see that the gasoline flows freely Should this not be the case remove the line at the tank and see that it flows freely there If this does not happen the tank opening leading to the gasoline line is obstructed Before going to extreme measures and removing the gasoline tank it is suggested that first you try to remove the obstruction by the following procedure If you are in reach of shore pump out the gasoline tank Now unfasten the gasoline line at the gaso line tank by unloosening the compression coupling Next unscrew the globe valve connected to the gas tank by means of a nipple and elbow This will make the gaso line tank opening larger by the outside diameter of the pipe nipple and in most instances will permit any obstruction to be pulled through laving over this opening Before replacing the parts clean the globe valve and make sure this is not obstructed If away from shore not having an oppor tunity to first remove the gasoline out of the tanks and there being more than one person in the boat remove the valve in the same manner but as soon as the pipe nipple is unscrewed have one person hold their finger over the opening preventing wastage of gasoline By poking in the opening afterwards some gasoline will be lost which will run into the bilge of the boat but this will be readily expelled by the action of the automatic bsaeilelrf Again make sure that nipple itself elbow and globe valve are clean before replacing If however the gasoline flows freely from tank the line is obstructed and should be cleaned out by blowing or air pressure Ifthe gasoline flows freely up to theautopulse pumps the trouble is in the latter and we refer you to the chapter covering the auto pulse as to how to trace and remedy the condition If the obstruction is in the gasoline tank there is only one permanent way of correcting Drop in Revolutions When the tachometer indicates a drop of revolu tions invariably the engine is blamed However upon investigation the cause will be found in most cases attributable to another cause 1 2 3 4 One or More Cylinders DoNot Function To ascertain if all cylinders of the engine are firing take a screw driver with an insulated handle Wood will do but if the metal part of the screw driver runs on through the handle be careful not to touch this metal part Now lay the metal part of the screw driver on the spark plug screw where high tension wire fastens and cut out the plug by touching the cylinder head If the motor sounds different and boat slows down this indicates that that particular cylinder is functioning properly If however no difference is noticed the cylinder does not work Stop the motor Take out the plug and clean same or replace with a new one There are two new plugs furnished in every tool kit for each boat After plug has been inserted and wire fastened start up motor and check all other cylinders by the same method Bent or Damaged Propeller Wheel Check this by lifting the stern of the boat free of the water and examine the propeller A bend is not necessarily discernible to the bare eye due to the fact that it is not neces sary for a propeller wheel to come in con tact with an obstruction to bend Sharp turning of the boat at full speed may cause bending of propeller wheel and this may not be discernible to the bare eye but has to be checked on a propeller gauge or may be determined indirectly by installing a new propeller and noting the difference in the performance with the old and new wheel When the Drop in Revolutions Has Been Coming on Gradually This may be due to the condition of the hull and bottom as the hull may be water logged or the bottom may be foul When the con dition of the bottom of the boat is Okeh and same is free of barnacles the boat may be water logged which may be overcome by hoisting the boat up for a few days and letting it dry out thoroughly Then apply a coat of bottom paint Should the hull be covered with barnacles and other growth the bottom should be scraped the hull dried and one or two coats of good faounlintgipaint applied The Boat Comes Up to Revolutions But After a Short Run the Revolutions Drop This will invariably be traced to the gasoline supply in the engine and upon examination it will be found that one of the autopulse units is lagging Or if all units show the same action but do not supply sufficient gasoline a quantity of water or rust may be seen in the glass bowl clogging up the fine screen mesh of strainer This condition should be corrected by cleaning gasoline pumps by following instructions covering the autopulse fully in chapter headed The Electric Gasoline Pump If pumps are cleaned and yet refuse to readily supply a sufficient amount of gasoline the gasoline line from the tank has become obstructed Remove the gasoline line coming from the tank and running to the autopulses at autopulses and bearing down the tube see that the gasoline flows freely Should this not be the case remove the line at the tank and see that it flows freely there If this does not happen the tank opening leading to the gasoline line is obstructed Before going to extreme measures and removing the gasoline tank it is suggested that first you try to remove the obstruction by the following procedure If you are in reach of shore pump out the gasoline tank Now unfasten the gasoline line at the gaso line tank by unloosening the compression coupling Next unscrew the globe valve connected to the gas tank by means of a nipple and elbow This will make the gaso line tank opening larger by the outside diameter of the pipe nipple and in most instances will permit any obstruction to be pulled through laving over this opening Before replacing the parts clean the globe valve and make sure this is not obstructed If away from shore not having an oppor tunity to first remove the gasoline out of the tanks and there being more than one person in the boat remove the valve in the same manner but as soon as the pipe nipple is unscrewed have one person hold their finger over the opening preventing wastage of gasoline By poking in the opening afterwards some gasoline will be lost which will run into the bilge of the boat but this will be readily expelled by the action of the automatic bsaeilelrf Again make sure that nipple itself elbow and globe valve are clean before replacing If however the gasoline flows freely from tank the line is obstructed and should be cleaned out by blowing or air pressure Ifthe gasoline flows freely up to theautopulse pumps the trouble is in the latter and we refer you to the chapter covering the auto pulse as to how to trace and remedy the condition If the obstruction is in the gasoline tank there is only one permanent way of correcting
this condition and obtaining a permanent cure and that is by removing the gasoline tank from the boat To do this it is not necessary to remove the transom or the decks as some people would believe necessary All it is necessary to do is to remove the aft cockpit seat cushions the aft cockpit seat boards and then remove the seat panel which is screw fastened in the aft cockpit floor See plates911 After removing these items unfasten the tank straps and the tank can be readily pulled forward into the aft cockpit and taken out of the boat It should now be thoroughly rinsed with gasoline shaken to and fro and then emptied If necessary repeat this operation two or three times Then replace the tank in the boat by reversing the former operation of removing it Plates nine and eleven will readily illustrate how the tank is installed and show the simplicity of the installation enabling ready removal without disturbing permanent fasteners Error in Tachometer Beading Unapparent loss of revolutions might appear to be the case while in reality the motor is produc ing its full R P M This may be caused by an error in the tachometer caused by variation in temperature which greatly influences this instru ment Tests conducted in our laboratory have shown temporary algebraic variation of as much as 300 to 400 revolutions ofthe tachometer which error when the temperature changes will again vary and disappear This will readily indicate that one must not be too quick to judge and condemn any particular part of the motor or the boat itself as too many outside factors may make it appear that there is something wrong where in re ality both boat and engine are performing 100 Relation Between Boat Speed and Engine Revolutions Great interest has been shown in the past by CChrarifst owners in a curve which at a glance would show the boat speed at various stages indicating engine revolutions Our experiences have shown to us that to get such a curve with any degree of accuracy is a practical impossibility Some of the reasons for this is first there is a factor of slippage in a boat which is not in an automobile To illustrate this tie the boat to a dock start up the motor put the transmission lever in ahead position and tachometer will indicate a certain amount of revolutions Of course the boat will not move at all which indicates a 100 slippage in this instance Now there is a theoretical factor of slippage but this factor is only theoretical and therefore can not be taken as a constant and cannot be used in a formula result of which might be plotted in the form of a curve This slippage factor is subject to a great many influences We have one illustration in the foregoing paragraph showing how it can increase to 100 Other factors which would influence this constant are Bent wheel one or more cylinders do not function Also condition of bottom that of weight of hull increased by absorption of water which condition is called water logged total weight and location of passengers the influence of current and tides direction of wind velocity of wind atmospheric conditions temperature of air humidity temperature of water which latter changes so to say in thickness called density If you as an owner would desire an approximate curve this may be easily made but you will readily appreciate from the above if you would take this curve at three different times each curve very likely would show a difference due to the influence of any or several of the above mentioned factors influencing the constant of slippage If there is a staked off mile course available the next thing to do is to prepare for plotting the curve Take a blank sheet of paper and draw a vertical line about V from the left side of the sheet Draw a horizontal line also V from the bottom side of the sheet These two lines intersect at the lower left hand corner of the paper and the two lines or ocrdinoates should form a 90 degree angle Now take a rule and mark off four equal spaces on the vertical line starting at the intersection of the ocrdinoates making these spaces 2in length Mark the point of intersection of the ocrdinoates zero the first mark on the vertical starting from zero upwards 1000 revolutions this condition and obtaining a permanent cure and that is by removing the gasoline tank from the boat To do this it is not necessary to remove the transom or the decks as some people would believe necessary All it is necessary to do is to remove the aft cockpit seat cushions the aft cockpit seat boards and then remove the seat panel which is screw fastened in the aft cockpit floor See plates911 After removing these items unfasten the tank straps and the tank can be readily pulled forward into the aft cockpit and taken out of the boat It should now be thoroughly rinsed with gasoline shaken to and fro and then emptied If necessary repeat this operation two or three times Then replace the tank in the boat by reversing the former operation of removing it Plates nine and eleven will readily illustrate how the tank is installed and show the simplicity of the installation enabling ready removal without disturbing permanent fasteners Error in Tachometer Beading Unapparent loss of revolutions might appear to be the case while in reality the motor is produc ing its full R P M This may be caused by an error in the tachometer caused by variation in temperature which greatly influences this instru ment Tests conducted in our laboratory have shown temporary algebraic variation of as much as 300 to 400 revolutions ofthe tachometer which error when the temperature changes will again vary and disappear This will readily indicate that one must not be too quick to judge and condemn any particular part of the motor or the boat itself as too many outside factors may make it appear that there is something wrong where in re ality both boat and engine are performing 100 Relation Between Boat Speed and Engine Revolutions Great interest has been shown in the past by CChrarifst owners in a curve which at a glance would show the boat speed at various stages indicating engine revolutions Our experiences have shown to us that to get such a curve with any degree of accuracy is a practical impossibility Some of the reasons for this is first there is a factor of slippage in a boat which is not in an automobile To illustrate this tie the boat to a dock start up the motor put the transmission lever in ahead position and tachometer will indicate a certain amount of revolutions Of course the boat will not move at all which indicates a 100 slippage in this instance Now there is a theoretical factor of slippage but this factor is only theoretical and therefore can not be taken as a constant and cannot be used in a formula result of which might be plotted in the form of a curve This slippage factor is subject to a great many influences We have one illustration in the foregoing paragraph showing how it can increase to 100 Other factors which would influence this constant are Bent wheel one or more cylinders do not function Also condition of bottom that of weight of hull increased by absorption of water which condition is called water logged total weight and location of passengers the influence of current and tides direction of wind velocity of wind atmospheric conditions temperature of air humidity temperature of water which latter changes so to say in thickness called density If you as an owner would desire an approximate curve this may be easily made but you will readily appreciate from the above if you would take this curve at three different times each curve very likely would show a difference due to the influence of any or several of the above mentioned factors influencing the constant of slippage If there is a staked off mile course available the next thing to do is to prepare for plotting the curve Take a blank sheet of paper and draw a vertical line about V from the left side of the sheet Draw a horizontal line also V from the bottom side of the sheet These two lines intersect at the lower left hand corner of the paper and the two lines or ocrdinoates should form a 90 degree angle Now take a rule and mark off four equal spaces on the vertical line starting at the intersection of the ocrdinoates making these spaces 2in length Mark the point of intersection of the ocrdinoates zero the first mark on the vertical starting from zero upwards 1000 revolutions
REVOLUTIONS the second 2000 revolutions the third point 3000 and the fourth point 4000 If so desired for more accurate reading subdivide each of the spaces in the vertical line into five equal spaces which the entire spaces being 2 each will indicate subdivisions of 200 revolutions or on the vertical line A still better chart may be obtained by subdivid ing the spaces on the vertical line marked from 0 to 12000 etc in 10 equal parts and the spaces on the horizontal ocrdinoates also in 10 equal spaces between the points indicating the revolu tions from 0 to 120etc as is done in the sample chart on this page You are now ready to proceed to plot the curve To have a swtaotcph available will facilitate matters but a watch with a second hand will do Make the first run per example at 1000 revolutions maintaining this r p m for the entire run Now observe how long it takes in seconds to run the mile If it is found thatat this speed it takes 300 seconds to run one mile and we are plotting the curve at miles per hour we have to reduce the results to miles per hour In other words if we run one mile in 300 seconds we would be running actually at a speed of sixty minutes or 3600 seconds divided by five minutes or 300 seconds equalling 12 or 12 x 1 is 12 miles per hour The mile was run at a speed of 1000 revo lutions per minute according to the tacho 50 reading Therefore draw a horizontal line through the 1000 R P M point and connect this with a vertical line running through the 12 mile point which we found was the speed and where these two lines meet is the second point of the curve the crossing of the in tersection of the ocrdinoates giving thefirst point if the curve In the same manner any amount of points may be found by making different runs over the course at a chosen R P Mwhich speed must be maintained during each individual run After each run establish the miles per hour speed the run was made in and find this point on the horizontal ocrdinoate Now draw a line upwards and where this meets the horizontal line drawn through the point of the R P M is a point of the curve When several points found in this manner are connected the result will give the desired curve REVOLUTIONS the second 2000 revolutions the third point 3000 and the fourth point 4000 If so desired for more accurate reading subdivide each of the spaces in the vertical line into five equal spaces which the entire spaces being 2 each will indicate subdivisions of 200 revolutions or on the vertical line A still better chart may be obtained by subdivid ing the spaces on the vertical line marked from 0 to 12000 etc in 10 equal parts and the spaces on the horizontal ocrdinoates also in 10 equal spaces between the points indicating the revolu tions from 0 to 120etc as is done in the sample chart on this page You are now ready to proceed to plot the curve To have a swtaotcph available will facilitate matters but a watch with a second hand will do Make the first run per example at 1000 revolutions maintaining this r p m for the entire run Now observe how long it takes in seconds to run the mile If it is found thatat this speed it takes 300 seconds to run one mile and we are plotting the curve at miles per hour we have to reduce the results to miles per hour In other words if we run one mile in 300 seconds we would be running actually at a speed of sixty minutes or 3600 seconds divided by five minutes or 300 seconds equalling 12 or 12 x 1 is 12 miles per hour The mile was run at a speed of 1000 revo lutions per minute according to the tacho 50 reading Therefore draw a horizontal line through the 1000 R P M point and connect this with a vertical line running through the 12 mile point which we found was the speed and where these two lines meet is the second point of the curve the crossing of the in tersection of the ocrdinoates giving thefirst point if the curve In the same manner any amount of points may be found by making different runs over the course at a chosen R P Mwhich speed must be maintained during each individual run After each run establish the miles per hour speed the run was made in and find this point on the horizontal ocrdinoate Now draw a line upwards and where this meets the horizontal line drawn through the point of the R P M is a point of the curve When several points found in this manner are connected the result will give the desired curve
plate diagrams plate diagrams
Electric Gasoline Gauge For those model CChrarifst equipped with dash gasoline gauge we herewith outline this instru ment The Nagel R K D electric gauge is essentially a current balancing instrument being in its accur acy completely independent of changes in battery voltage In the tank unit illustration may be seen a contactor geared to the float which divides the resistance in two parts In the dash unit illus tration there may be found two coils each connec ted with one part of the tank unit resistance With the float in the empty position the resistance is completely cut out of the circuit of one coil and fully in the circuit of the other Therefore the first coil will exert a force which will pull the vane clear into that coil and throw the pointer to Empty Dash Unit Tank Unit Complete Assembly As the float travels from empty to full resistance is continually added to the circuit of the first coil causing it to become weaker and the resis tance is cut out of the circuit of the second coil making it stronger and hence the pointer will move in exactly the same ratio toward Full This action continues until in the full position the resistance is fully in the first coil circuit and all out of the second coil circuit so that the second coil will pull the vane clear in throwing the pointer to full One coil is actually balanced against the other and since the same voltage is acting in both coils a variation in the battery voltage will act on both coils equally and will not disturb the reading of the gauge In the same construction of the gauge all resis tances and positions of parts are absolutely fxed so that with proper installation and under normal service there is no attention required whatsoever The current consumption of the gauge is low between 65 and 65 milliamperes as to be neglig Tank Unit Head Mechanism ible insofar as boat operation is concerned and may therefore be utterly disregarded The wiring diagram shown on page 28 illustrates the simple circuit of the gasoline gauge alone It is of paramount importance that the circuit of the gauge should be exactly as illustrated in this diagram that no connectionsibe reversed and that all connections be securely made If these instructions are not followed to the letter not only will the operation of the gauge be faulty but also and more serious the gauge itself is liable to considerable damage electrically On our installations where a wooden dash is Electric Gasoline Gauge For those model CChrarifst equipped with dash gasoline gauge we herewith outline this instru ment The Nagel R K D electric gauge is essentially a current balancing instrument being in its accur acy completely independent of changes in battery voltage In the tank unit illustration may be seen a contactor geared to the float which divides the resistance in two parts In the dash unit illus tration there may be found two coils each connec ted with one part of the tank unit resistance With the float in the empty position the resistance is completely cut out of the circuit of one coil and fully in the circuit of the other Therefore the first coil will exert a force which will pull the vane clear into that coil and throw the pointer to Empty Dash Unit Tank Unit Complete Assembly As the float travels from empty to full resistance is continually added to the circuit of the first coil causing it to become weaker and the resis tance is cut out of the circuit of the second coil making it stronger and hence the pointer will move in exactly the same ratio toward Full This action continues until in the full position the resistance is fully in the first coil circuit and all out of the second coil circuit so that the second coil will pull the vane clear in throwing the pointer to full One coil is actually balanced against the other and since the same voltage is acting in both coils a variation in the battery voltage will act on both coils equally and will not disturb the reading of the gauge In the same construction of the gauge all resis tances and positions of parts are absolutely fxed so that with proper installation and under normal service there is no attention required whatsoever The current consumption of the gauge is low between 65 and 65 milliamperes as to be neglig Tank Unit Head Mechanism ible insofar as boat operation is concerned and may therefore be utterly disregarded The wiring diagram shown on page 28 illustrates the simple circuit of the gasoline gauge alone It is of paramount importance that the circuit of the gauge should be exactly as illustrated in this diagram that no connectionsibe reversed and that all connections be securely made If these instructions are not followed to the letter not only will the operation of the gauge be faulty but also and more serious the gauge itself is liable to considerable damage electrically On our installations where a wooden dash is
used it is necessary that the instrument board unit be grounded to the Oil Pressure Gauge in order to provide complete electrical connection Which is taken care of in the Chris Csraft both gas and oil gauges being mounted on a common metal instrument board panel It is well in cases of trouble to assure yourself that this ground connection is not broken In cases where connections are apparently correctly made and still the gauge operation is faulty it is a valuable expedient to connect the dash and tank units with additional wires out side the harness for testing purposes only thereby indicating if possible the fault may lie in the harness itself and showing the exact location of the difficulty used it is necessary that the instrument board unit be grounded to the Oil Pressure Gauge in order to provide complete electrical connection Which is taken care of in the Chris Csraft both gas and oil gauges being mounted on a common metal instrument board panel It is well in cases of trouble to assure yourself that this ground connection is not broken In cases where connections are apparently correctly made and still the gauge operation is faulty it is a valuable expedient to connect the dash and tank units with additional wires out side the harness for testing purposes only thereby indicating if possible the fault may lie in the harness itself and showing the exact location of the difficulty
GAS GAUGE TROUBLE CHART Gauge Action Cause Probable Location of Fault I No definite reading 1 Ground in instrument board unit at No 1 When the gauge is in the ignition hib b aGround in No 1 line 2 Ground in line circuit and t at c rcuit is roken y J opening switch there is no current ener 3 Ground in tank unit at No 1 gizing the gauge and hence the gaage will neither retain a correct rending b Open battery circuit 1 Loose terminal noris it required to return to zero 2 Broken wire from ammeter 3 Open resistance unit between ammeter and gauge a Ground in No 2 line 1 Ground in instrument board unit at No 2 II Reads empty until tank is 2 Ground in No 2 line 3 Ground intank unit at No 2 about full then no definite b No ground in dash unit reading See third paragraph on 1 Defective ground between dash unit and dash next page 2 Defective instrument III Tank empty reads empty Break between dash and J 1 Loose terminal 2 Broken wire Tank full reads14 tank in No 1 line ll 3 Open resistance at No 1 J 1 All connections O K except battery is on No 2 IV Reads full until nearly a Reversed connections of dash unit empty then no definite reading b Open circuit in dash unit 1 No 1 double terminal notconnected to No 1 of dash unit 2 Defective dash unit V Nodefinitereadingatempty at 14filling gauge goes to 34 Reversed connections and then gradually moves I to full with tank filling 1 Instrument leads from tank unit reversed battery on No 1 2 Tank leads reversed VI Tank empty reads about12 At about 14 filling goes to Reversed connections Instrument leads from tank unit reversed full and remains until tank battery on No 2 of dash unit is full 1 Loose terminal 2 Broken wire 3 Defective tank unit VII Reads 12at all points a Break in No 2 line j 4 Poor contact at center brush of tank unit caused by dirt 5 Sticking plunger in tank unit 6 Weak spring behind contact plunger VIII Tank empty reads34Tank full reads full No ground in tank unit a Intermittent contact in IX Gauge action erratic un tankunit stable orinaccurate bWater on car terminal l block X Gaugereadshigh whentank Faulty mechanical ad is empty does not read zero justment 2 Open resistance at ground end 1 Loose terminal 2 Broken wire in No 2 line 3 High wires in potentiometer winding 4 Poor contact in center brush of tank unit 5 Sticking plunger in tank unit 6 Weak spring behind contact plunger 1 Car terminal block should be kept dry as pos sible to prevent electrolytic action 1 Bent float rod all rods should be straight 2 Loose screws holding contactor in place When float is at empty contactor should be at extreme end of potentiometer This adjust ment secured by two screws E 18 XI Gauge readslow whentank Faulty mechanical ad 2 Loose screws holding contactor in place overflows gauge has notyet ustment When float is at empty contactor should be reached full at extreme empty end of potentiometer This adjustment secured by two screws E 18 Do not attempt to lubricate either dash Do notuse gasoline or oil in cleaning tank unit or tank unit parts Use alcohol only In cases where fault is found conclusively to lie in the dash unit the complete dash unit should be sent to our plant for inspection We do notadvise attempting repair nor do wefurnish parts for the unit for assembly outside of ourplant The operations involved are of such a delicate and specialized nature as to require special tools and fixtures and labor trained for the various operations involved GAS GAUGE TROUBLE CHART Gauge Action Cause Probable Location of Fault I No definite reading 1 Ground in instrument board unit at No 1 When the gauge is in the ignition hib b aGround in No 1 line 2 Ground in line circuit and t at c rcuit is roken y J opening switch there is no current ener 3 Ground in tank unit at No 1 gizing the gauge and hence the gaage will neither retain a correct rending b Open battery circuit 1 Loose terminal noris it required to return to zero 2 Broken wire from ammeter 3 Open resistance unit between ammeter and gauge a Ground in No 2 line 1 Ground in instrument board unit at No 2 II Reads empty until tank is 2 Ground in No 2 line 3 Ground intank unit at No 2 about full then no definite b No ground in dash unit reading See third paragraph on 1 Defective ground between dash unit and dash next page 2 Defective instrument III Tank empty reads empty Break between dash and J 1 Loose terminal 2 Broken wire Tank full reads14 tank in No 1 line ll 3 Open resistance at No 1 J 1 All connections O K except battery is on No 2 IV Reads full until nearly a Reversed connections of dash unit empty then no definite reading b Open circuit in dash unit 1 No 1 double terminal notconnected to No 1 of dash unit 2 Defective dash unit V Nodefinitereadingatempty at 14filling gauge goes to 34 Reversed connections and then gradually moves I to full with tank filling 1 Instrument leads from tank unit reversed battery on No 1 2 Tank leads reversed VI Tank empty reads about12 At about 14 filling goes to Reversed connections Instrument leads from tank unit reversed full and remains until tank battery on No 2 of dash unit is full 1 Loose terminal 2 Broken wire 3 Defective tank unit VII Reads 12at all points a Break in No 2 line j 4 Poor contact at center brush of tank unit caused by dirt 5 Sticking plunger in tank unit 6 Weak spring behind contact plunger VIII Tank empty reads34Tank full reads full No ground in tank unit a Intermittent contact in IX Gauge action erratic un tankunit stable orinaccurate bWater on car terminal l block X Gaugereadshigh whentank Faulty mechanical ad is empty does not read zero justment 2 Open resistance at ground end 1 Loose terminal 2 Broken wire in No 2 line 3 High wires in potentiometer winding 4 Poor contact in center brush of tank unit 5 Sticking plunger in tank unit 6 Weak spring behind contact plunger 1 Car terminal block should be kept dry as pos sible to prevent electrolytic action 1 Bent float rod all rods should be straight 2 Loose screws holding contactor in place When float is at empty contactor should be at extreme end of potentiometer This adjust ment secured by two screws E 18 XI Gauge readslow whentank Faulty mechanical ad 2 Loose screws holding contactor in place overflows gauge has notyet ustment When float is at empty contactor should be reached full at extreme empty end of potentiometer This adjustment secured by two screws E 18 Do not attempt to lubricate either dash Do notuse gasoline or oil in cleaning tank unit or tank unit parts Use alcohol only In cases where fault is found conclusively to lie in the dash unit the complete dash unit should be sent to our plant for inspection We do notadvise attempting repair nor do wefurnish parts for the unit for assembly outside of ourplant The operations involved are of such a delicate and specialized nature as to require special tools and fixtures and labor trained for the various operations involved
In ordering to avoid confusion give partnumber whereknown as well as part name andgive make model andyearof boatfor which desired No partsfurnished fordash unit Return complete unit to factory for repai rs E D1i8st Arm HolderScrew per C 50c EG 1G5ea2rSpring per C25c EG L2a0rg2e Connector eac1 A L3oc2kWasherper C10 EG 1G5ea5rPin ca 02c FloatRod ea 7c EG C3on2tactPlunger Arm ea 45c EG C1on6nec9tor Unit ea 20c EG2D5is8t ArmHolder ea2 EGP3iv7otScrew ea2c EG C1o7nta2ct Spring eac1 Shaft and Plunger Holder EGP3i7voAt Screw ea 2c EG C1o7ve4r ea10c 1 Support EG 388Shf A ea 18c EG38 Contact Plunger Spring EG C5ov6erGasket per C 35c ca 13yc EG C1la7m6p Plate EG C1on7nect8ionCap ea Y2c ea 8c atssembly EG C4o3ndu8it Bushing ea 17 ea 3Mc EGP6in0ioAn eaIle EG T1a8n5k Gasket ca ly2c EGF4l9oa1tStop Plate Screw EG 05 C per C18c EGR8esist4anceInsulator ea le EG I1nsu9lat3or eale 5 ontact Plunger ea 3Y2c EGT8erm8inal Screw perC35c EG A1dju9sta6ble Float Stop ea lY2c Resistance Block 6volts ea 42c Resistance Block 12 volts ca 61c EGT8er8miAnalScrew pperC25c EG 1G9ea7r ea21c EG5G2ea1r PinNut C Ppeerr C85c EG R1es3istan1ce ea 31c EGC2o0ve0rScrew ea le FloatAssembly ea38c EG P1oten4tiom9eter Screw per C25c EG S2m0a1ll Connector cac1 Floatand Rod Assembly In ordering to avoid confusion give partnumber whereknown as well as part name andgive make model andyearof boatfor which desired No partsfurnished fordash unit Return complete unit to factory for repai rs E D1i8st Arm HolderScrew per C 50c EG 1G5ea2rSpring per C25c EG L2a0rg2e Connector eac1 A L3oc2kWasherper C10 EG 1G5ea5rPin ca 02c FloatRod ea 7c EG C3on2tactPlunger Arm ea 45c EG C1on6nec9tor Unit ea 20c EG2D5is8t ArmHolder ea2 EGP3iv7otScrew ea2c EG C1o7nta2ct Spring eac1 Shaft and Plunger Holder EGP3i7voAt Screw ea 2c EG C1o7ve4r ea10c 1 Support EG 388Shf A ea 18c EG38 Contact Plunger Spring EG C5ov6erGasket per C 35c ca 13yc EG C1la7m6p Plate EG C1on7nect8ionCap ea Y2c ea 8c atssembly EG C4o3ndu8it Bushing ea 17 ea 3Mc EGP6in0ioAn eaIle EG T1a8n5k Gasket ca ly2c EGF4l9oa1tStop Plate Screw EG 05 C per C18c EGR8esist4anceInsulator ea le EG I1nsu9lat3or eale 5 ontact Plunger ea 3Y2c EGT8erm8inal Screw perC35c EG A1dju9sta6ble Float Stop ea lY2c Resistance Block 6volts ea 42c Resistance Block 12 volts ca 61c EGT8er8miAnalScrew pperC25c EG 1G9ea7r ea21c EG5G2ea1r PinNut C Ppeerr C85c EG R1es3istan1ce ea 31c EGC2o0ve0rScrew ea le FloatAssembly ea38c EG P1oten4tiom9eter Screw per C25c EG S2m0a1ll Connector cac1 Floatand Rod Assembly
The Automatic Electric Fuel Pump AUTOPULSE Following is a summary of points to be checked when encountering difficulties with the autopulse 1 Defective fuel pipe connections 2 Restrictions in fuel channels 3 Carburetor floods 4 Electrical connections 5 Water immersion effects 6 First Aid for defective autopulse Occasionally we find the Autopulse blamed for failure or unsatis factory operation when the fault is entirely external to it It is the purpose of this chapter to point out sources of these possible distur bances and give recommendations for their correction 1 Defective Fuel Pipe Connections It is important that the fuel supply system be air and fuel tight throughout but especially so upon the suction side of the auto pulse The surplus capacity usually available may be reduced to the danger point by poor connections or a cracked fuel line Pipe fittings will frequently leak evenwhen turned up to the limit When in doubt use a small amount of shellac or sealing compound upon the pipe threads and examine pressure seats for cracks or grooves Replace defective seats Use care to prevent excess of sealing com pound entering the pump Itmay gum up the valves A bad air leak will cause the autopulse to stroke at too high a rate intermittently quite similar to the initial air pumping Every joint and gasket connection upon the suction side of the autopulse should be under suspicion in case of indicated leak especially those at the supply tank 2 Restrictions in Fuel Channels When the autopulse is supplied with glass filter chamber the leak and its extent can be readily determined by observation of the inlet fuel column in the top of screen assembly Bubbles in the column indicate small leaks and intermittent breaking of the fuel column a serious leak See Inlet to Chamber Cut No 1 An autopulse may be restricted in capacity by a clog either upon its suction or delivery side but is more serious upon the suction side because of its build up of current in its attempt to overcome the resistance resulting in rapid burning away of the tungsten contact points The most common causes are a clogged screen in tank filter traps or under autopulse cap when glass bowl is not used b Wood splinters or cloth particles in elbows or fittings at tank c Suction tube may be closed from a kinked bend Restriction upon delivery side does not injure the autopulse but will of course prevent delivery Common causes a Clogged carburetor screen b plugged pipes or c defective float valve 3 Carburetor Floods Flooding may be and often is caused by the float valve being held off The Automatic Electric Fuel Pump AUTOPULSE Following is a summary of points to be checked when encountering difficulties with the autopulse 1 Defective fuel pipe connections 2 Restrictions in fuel channels 3 Carburetor floods 4 Electrical connections 5 Water immersion effects 6 First Aid for defective autopulse Occasionally we find the Autopulse blamed for failure or unsatis factory operation when the fault is entirely external to it It is the purpose of this chapter to point out sources of these possible distur bances and give recommendations for their correction 1 Defective Fuel Pipe Connections It is important that the fuel supply system be air and fuel tight throughout but especially so upon the suction side of the auto pulse The surplus capacity usually available may be reduced to the danger point by poor connections or a cracked fuel line Pipe fittings will frequently leak evenwhen turned up to the limit When in doubt use a small amount of shellac or sealing compound upon the pipe threads and examine pressure seats for cracks or grooves Replace defective seats Use care to prevent excess of sealing com pound entering the pump Itmay gum up the valves A bad air leak will cause the autopulse to stroke at too high a rate intermittently quite similar to the initial air pumping Every joint and gasket connection upon the suction side of the autopulse should be under suspicion in case of indicated leak especially those at the supply tank 2 Restrictions in Fuel Channels When the autopulse is supplied with glass filter chamber the leak and its extent can be readily determined by observation of the inlet fuel column in the top of screen assembly Bubbles in the column indicate small leaks and intermittent breaking of the fuel column a serious leak See Inlet to Chamber Cut No 1 An autopulse may be restricted in capacity by a clog either upon its suction or delivery side but is more serious upon the suction side because of its build up of current in its attempt to overcome the resistance resulting in rapid burning away of the tungsten contact points The most common causes are a clogged screen in tank filter traps or under autopulse cap when glass bowl is not used b Wood splinters or cloth particles in elbows or fittings at tank c Suction tube may be closed from a kinked bend Restriction upon delivery side does not injure the autopulse but will of course prevent delivery Common causes a Clogged carburetor screen b plugged pipes or c defective float valve 3 Carburetor Floods Flooding may be and often is caused by the float valve being held off
its seat by hair thread or some foreign material or by a defective float valve seat or needle and will leak under almost any pressure condition A valve in this condition requires cleaning or reseating and inspection by carburetor service 4 Electric Connections Most common causes of electrical trouble are loose connections at pump or switch grounding ofthe live side on lead or at binding post terminal Terminal clip should be bent out of contact with pump body as gasoline or oil will sometimes get on the rubber sleeve and ruin it leaving the terminal clip bare 5 Water Immersion Effects Should the autopulse be immersed in water the water will fill the shell and be retained by it The working parts will become corroded and if not cared for in a reasonable time say a day or so the corrosion will increase to the point where it will prevent the autopulse from functioning Salt water will cause rapid deterioration The proper way to service in this case is to first apply a wrench to the hexagon head screw at bottom Remove screw and spring Holding the shell in one hand and the base in the other un screw shell with left turn Note Do notattempt to unscrew shell from base before removing cap screw Such attempt will probably result in break ing the coil lead and require a factory repair Rinse well in boiling fresh water shake well to remove water and allow to dry overnight at least Use match or toothpick to apply a small amount of oil to each of the four balls in bearing and replace parts in reverse order to disassembly Do not unscrew shell in further than required to bring bottom of shell lightly against bottom of magnet Lock shell with cap nut Replace all the fiber washers if any under head of cap screw Re moval of one washer will increase delivery pres sure about 5 or 6 6 First Aid for Defective Autopulses In case of supposed failure of the fuel supply first rap autopulse on top with a piece of board or hammer handle If fault is due to sticking or contact trouble possibly caused by slight internal gasoline leak this treatment will start it and it Cut No 2 may never again fail from this cause but if it does require several treatments there is sufficient cause for examination and repair Next check the electrical connections by fwlasihtinhg screw driver or other metal rod between autopulse binding post terminal and base or cap If a flash occurs the current is there if not look for loose connections or ground of lead Note This should only be done while no gasoline is exposed to the spark If engine will not start make the following checks 1st Examine carburetor float bowl for fuel or press tickles flooding the carburetor If fuel is in the bowl and pump strokes as soon as float valve is raised then the fault is in the engine and not the autopulse 2nd Should there be no fuel in carburetor and pump fails to stroke when valve is opened or delivery pipe is disconnected the above men tioned checks having been made remove the autopulse and try to blow through it from suction ofTside to carburetor or C side If air goes through freely the valves are free and there is no inside screen restriction If you cannot blow through first check outlet valve Look into outlet hole Valve is in sight Use pen knife blade and lift disk off its seat it may be stuck by gummy material See that disk is free and seated by pushing around with blade again blow and if still clogged remove cap screw Part No 212 Cut No 2 or filter base Part No 287 Cut No 1 if equipped with glass filter bowl and remove screen No 240 in former case and clean if clogged The suction valve is now exposed Push gently upon the center of disk in center hole and break loose if gummed on seat or if apart the assembly can be removed by working it out with knife blade There are two types of suction valves in service Cut No 3 represents the structure at present produced assembled in order as shown with spring No 217 in retainer No 221 tongue and center hole up Place pin on valve disk No 216 in center hole of spring and snap fastener No 221 on to cage No 215 the three prongs on to bead of seat Replace No 227 cork gasket if removed under flange of valve cage No 215 and reassemble screen No 240 and cap No 212 Note When filter base No 287 is used instead of cap No 212 screen No 240 must be left out 3rd If Autopulse strokes freely but does not deliver fuel it is probably due to a particle of some substance blocking open the outlet valve Disconnect the pump and work valve disk with kpneifne blade and blow through the suction side until valve is free and seats If you have removed valve screw No 220 and misplaced valve disk No 219 proceed as follows Work the disk on its seat centrally through pump outlet connection hole with dome center up and surface seat of valve disk against its seat by hair thread or some foreign material or by a defective float valve seat or needle and will leak under almost any pressure condition A valve in this condition requires cleaning or reseating and inspection by carburetor service 4 Electric Connections Most common causes of electrical trouble are loose connections at pump or switch grounding ofthe live side on lead or at binding post terminal Terminal clip should be bent out of contact with pump body as gasoline or oil will sometimes get on the rubber sleeve and ruin it leaving the terminal clip bare 5 Water Immersion Effects Should the autopulse be immersed in water the water will fill the shell and be retained by it The working parts will become corroded and if not cared for in a reasonable time say a day or so the corrosion will increase to the point where it will prevent the autopulse from functioning Salt water will cause rapid deterioration The proper way to service in this case is to first apply a wrench to the hexagon head screw at bottom Remove screw and spring Holding the shell in one hand and the base in the other un screw shell with left turn Note Do notattempt to unscrew shell from base before removing cap screw Such attempt will probably result in break ing the coil lead and require a factory repair Rinse well in boiling fresh water shake well to remove water and allow to dry overnight at least Use match or toothpick to apply a small amount of oil to each of the four balls in bearing and replace parts in reverse order to disassembly Do not unscrew shell in further than required to bring bottom of shell lightly against bottom of magnet Lock shell with cap nut Replace all the fiber washers if any under head of cap screw Re moval of one washer will increase delivery pres sure about 5 or 6 6 First Aid for Defective Autopulses In case of supposed failure of the fuel supply first rap autopulse on top with a piece of board or hammer handle If fault is due to sticking or contact trouble possibly caused by slight internal gasoline leak this treatment will start it and it Cut No 2 may never again fail from this cause but if it does require several treatments there is sufficient cause for examination and repair Next check the electrical connections by fwlasihtinhg screw driver or other metal rod between autopulse binding post terminal and base or cap If a flash occurs the current is there if not look for loose connections or ground of lead Note This should only be done while no gasoline is exposed to the spark If engine will not start make the following checks 1st Examine carburetor float bowl for fuel or press tickles flooding the carburetor If fuel is in the bowl and pump strokes as soon as float valve is raised then the fault is in the engine and not the autopulse 2nd Should there be no fuel in carburetor and pump fails to stroke when valve is opened or delivery pipe is disconnected the above men tioned checks having been made remove the autopulse and try to blow through it from suction ofTside to carburetor or C side If air goes through freely the valves are free and there is no inside screen restriction If you cannot blow through first check outlet valve Look into outlet hole Valve is in sight Use pen knife blade and lift disk off its seat it may be stuck by gummy material See that disk is free and seated by pushing around with blade again blow and if still clogged remove cap screw Part No 212 Cut No 2 or filter base Part No 287 Cut No 1 if equipped with glass filter bowl and remove screen No 240 in former case and clean if clogged The suction valve is now exposed Push gently upon the center of disk in center hole and break loose if gummed on seat or if apart the assembly can be removed by working it out with knife blade There are two types of suction valves in service Cut No 3 represents the structure at present produced assembled in order as shown with spring No 217 in retainer No 221 tongue and center hole up Place pin on valve disk No 216 in center hole of spring and snap fastener No 221 on to cage No 215 the three prongs on to bead of seat Replace No 227 cork gasket if removed under flange of valve cage No 215 and reassemble screen No 240 and cap No 212 Note When filter base No 287 is used instead of cap No 212 screen No 240 must be left out 3rd If Autopulse strokes freely but does not deliver fuel it is probably due to a particle of some substance blocking open the outlet valve Disconnect the pump and work valve disk with kpneifne blade and blow through the suction side until valve is free and seats If you have removed valve screw No 220 and misplaced valve disk No 219 proceed as follows Work the disk on its seat centrally through pump outlet connection hole with dome center up and surface seat of valve disk against
surfaced brass piece No 218 Cut No 1 or 5 insert spring No 2A20 through valve screw hole on to top of valve disk place fiber gasket No 229 in recess at top of valve screw hole and insert valve screw No 220 Use care not to cross or strip fine thread When screw is properly started in thread drive tight pump its disturbance if any such as a fuel leak or an electrical short circuit etcetera can be discontinued or prevented by its electrical dis connection Remove binding post screw from that unit and connect the two terminals dis placed together by binding with string or wire so as to maintain electrical connection to other i O O Cut No 3 against gasket check to see if valve opens freely after operation Note In the later model of pump the slot in screw No 220 has been removed to prevent accidental displacement of the valves by uninstructed persons removing the screw Should trouble develop in a unit of a multiple firQs O Cut No 4 i rro4Sy toAFY Cut No 5 pump units If end pump is disconnected use care that lead cannot become grounded Mechanical Automatic Gasoline Pump Complete instructions on this type of pump will be found in each tool kit Racing Trim When planning to participate in a race it is recommended that you put your boat in racing trim or in other words give the boat and running gear a careful inspection First of all we recom mend that the boat be pulled out of the water and the hull allowed to thoroughly dry This will be accomplished under normal conditions in from four to five days The bottom of the hull should then be given a coat of potlead If this paint is not available locally it may be prepared as follows Take one pound of Flake Graphite to three quarter gallon of White Shellac Stir thor oughly and dilute with alcohol so it will spread easily This quantity is sufficient for two coats After the first coat has been allowed to set for ten hours the bottom should besanded down A second and third coat should then be applied in the same manner as the first one allowing each coat to properly dry before sanding it down Especially on the last coat a smooth polished finish should be obtained While the boat is out of the water and drying out it is a good time to give the engine the once over change the oil in the sump and replace with new oil using the grade specified on the serial number plate on the inside of the engine hatch see plate 20 Make a careful check of the propeller wheel see ing it is in good condition and not damaged also check the battery to see if it is fully charged If you feel that you want further information when entering your boat for the race write us a letter addressing same to the attention of the service department and we will be glad to answer your questions surfaced brass piece No 218 Cut No 1 or 5 insert spring No 2A20 through valve screw hole on to top of valve disk place fiber gasket No 229 in recess at top of valve screw hole and insert valve screw No 220 Use care not to cross or strip fine thread When screw is properly started in thread drive tight pump its disturbance if any such as a fuel leak or an electrical short circuit etcetera can be discontinued or prevented by its electrical dis connection Remove binding post screw from that unit and connect the two terminals dis placed together by binding with string or wire so as to maintain electrical connection to other i O O Cut No 3 against gasket check to see if valve opens freely after operation Note In the later model of pump the slot in screw No 220 has been removed to prevent accidental displacement of the valves by uninstructed persons removing the screw Should trouble develop in a unit of a multiple firQs O Cut No 4 i rro4Sy toAFY Cut No 5 pump units If end pump is disconnected use care that lead cannot become grounded Mechanical Automatic Gasoline Pump Complete instructions on this type of pump will be found in each tool kit Racing Trim When planning to participate in a race it is recommended that you put your boat in racing trim or in other words give the boat and running gear a careful inspection First of all we recom mend that the boat be pulled out of the water and the hull allowed to thoroughly dry This will be accomplished under normal conditions in from four to five days The bottom of the hull should then be given a coat of potlead If this paint is not available locally it may be prepared as follows Take one pound of Flake Graphite to three quarter gallon of White Shellac Stir thor oughly and dilute with alcohol so it will spread easily This quantity is sufficient for two coats After the first coat has been allowed to set for ten hours the bottom should besanded down A second and third coat should then be applied in the same manner as the first one allowing each coat to properly dry before sanding it down Especially on the last coat a smooth polished finish should be obtained While the boat is out of the water and drying out it is a good time to give the engine the once over change the oil in the sump and replace with new oil using the grade specified on the serial number plate on the inside of the engine hatch see plate 20 Make a careful check of the propeller wheel see ing it is in good condition and not damaged also check the battery to see if it is fully charged If you feel that you want further information when entering your boat for the race write us a letter addressing same to the attention of the service department and we will be glad to answer your questions
Laying Up the Boat for the Winter First When a proper place has been secured to Secure either two or three timbers as specified on lay up your boat during the winter and should the accompanying chart and the timbers should this place be provided with a well lift your boat not be less than 6x 6 square but it is all right to up in the regular way by attaching chain hoist spike together three 2 x6 Place these timbers to the forward and aft lifting rings or rigging at distances under the boat as specified on Plate with which all our boats are provided for this 19 Under the cruiser not less than 8 purpose If you own one of our f2oo8t or larger Next secure two taper blocks Place one on the boats at least two2ton chainfalls should be used port and one on the starboard side of the aft Second Drain all the water out of the boat supporting timber making sure that these blocks We suggest all boats now having the new style project at least 1 from the sides of the boat full automatic bailer that temporarily you lift To illustrate this more clearly we refer you to the hull slightly higher at the stern than at the sketch No 1 on Plate 18 Sketch No 2 gives bow This will enable all the water to drain out the dimensions of the block which is the same through the front drain plug located under the for all boats up to and including the f2oo6terFor intermediate or engine room forward bulkhead the f2oo8tand f3ootmo0dels similar blocksshould seat for which purpose of course same must be made to support the boat also at the chine first be opened but not until the boat is clear of Those boats for which the chart specified a center the water Any remaining water may be re timber blocks should also be provided to support moved by using a sponge the boat at that point at the chine Laying Up the Boat for the Winter First When a proper place has been secured to Secure either two or three timbers as specified on lay up your boat during the winter and should the accompanying chart and the timbers should this place be provided with a well lift your boat not be less than 6x 6 square but it is all right to up in the regular way by attaching chain hoist spike together three 2 x6 Place these timbers to the forward and aft lifting rings or rigging at distances under the boat as specified on Plate with which all our boats are provided for this 19 Under the cruiser not less than 8 purpose If you own one of our f2oo8t or larger Next secure two taper blocks Place one on the boats at least two2ton chainfalls should be used port and one on the starboard side of the aft Second Drain all the water out of the boat supporting timber making sure that these blocks We suggest all boats now having the new style project at least 1 from the sides of the boat full automatic bailer that temporarily you lift To illustrate this more clearly we refer you to the hull slightly higher at the stern than at the sketch No 1 on Plate 18 Sketch No 2 gives bow This will enable all the water to drain out the dimensions of the block which is the same through the front drain plug located under the for all boats up to and including the f2oo6terFor intermediate or engine room forward bulkhead the f2oo8tand f3ootmo0dels similar blocksshould seat for which purpose of course same must be made to support the boat also at the chine first be opened but not until the boat is clear of Those boats for which the chart specified a center the water Any remaining water may be re timber blocks should also be provided to support moved by using a sponge the boat at that point at the chine

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